Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6
Page 7
Page 8
Page 9
Page 10
Page 11
Page 12
Page 13
Page 14
Page 15
Page 16
Page 17
Page 18
Page 19
Page 20
Page 21
Page 22
Page 23
Page 24
Page 25
Page 26
Page 27
Page 28
Page 29
Page 30
Page 31
Page 32
Page 33
Page 34
Page 35
Page 36
Page 37
Page 38
Page 39
Page 40
Page 41
Page 42
Page 43
Page 44
Page 45
Page 46
Page 47
Page 48
Page 49
Page 50
Page 51
Page 52
SCOTTISHISLANDSSeptemberOctober2014THEUKSONLYMAGAZINEDEVOTEDTOEXPLORINGTHEISLANDSOFSCOTLAND3.95StKildaFromAfarJuraEstatesSurveyedColonsayTeachersViewCannaCoastlineCannaCoastlineOrkneyStromnessPlusTireeInspired-CastleRestored-SkyePermaculture-andmuchmoreExplorerOrkneyStromness ScotlandScottishislandtours30differentislandstovisitonourescortedholidays-eachwithitsownuniquecharacterCall01334657155torequestabrochureBookonlineatwww.brightwaterscotland.com5020ScotlandScottishHolidays2014BuachailleEtiveMorinGlencoeScotlandScotlandScottishHolidays2014BuachailleEtiveMorinGlencoeScotland SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER3contents4EditorJohnHumphriesandGuestColumnistJimAllen5Visionfor2020onUnstplustheregularQuiz6InsightsOneonbooksthatrecordbothwaysandmeans7InsightsTwoontheinsularandresilient8InspiredbyTireeMavisGulliverrevealshowherCryatMidnightevolved13WhereLighthousesProvideAccommodationJackPalfreyexperiencedShetlandAmenityTrustslatestventure15IslandsBeyondJohnNoreenSteelerealisedhowRobertLouisStevensonistreasured16StromnessBluePlaquesStephenRobertsdelvesintotheirconnections20TheLadyofStKildaJulieMundypondersthesignificanceofaname24ReadersOpportunitiesGettingwarm25GettingOutand...KnownAconsortiumforteam-workproposedbyJohnHumphries26CentrepieceThephotographyofMarcoDadone28TheEstatesofJuraDavidHoultsurveysthem32RubhaPhoil-ForestGardenAnniDonaldsonadvocatesSkyepermaculture36CoastingAroundCannaRogerButlerdescribesanexhilaratingwalkviawildcliffs40TheLifeofaColonsayTeacherRichardEvansinterviewedEvieStrath44MingaryCastleJamesPetreventuresintoArdnamurchanandpromotesrestoration46Island-visitingLiterallyandthroughLiteratureTomAstonreflectsonanintegralfeatureoftheIslandsBookTrust49CrosswordSponsoredbytheIslandsBookTrustTomJohnsonpresentshistwelfthchallenge50IslandIncidentsBarbaraSellarscontinuesherseasonalreviewofayearonIonaEstatesonJurapage28InspiredbyTireepage13CoastingAroundCannapage36SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSeptemberOctober2014Volume15Issue5EditorJohnHumphrieseditorscottishislandsexplorer.com01379890270PublisherTomHumphriespublisherscottishislandsexplorer.comProductionDesignDeborahBryceproductionscottishislandsexplorer.comProofReaderMelaniePalmerCirculationSteveTiernanwww.magazineworkshop.co.ukstevemagazineworkshop.co.uk01422410615RegularContributorsTomAstonRogerButlerMarcCalhounRichardClubleyJamesHendrieMavisGulliverJackPalfreySarahWestAndrewWisemanAdministrationRavenspointPressLtdKershaderIsleofLewisHS29QA01851880737infoscottishislandsexplorer.comwww.scottishislandsexplorer.comPublishedbi-monthlyPrintedbyHastingsPrintingCo.LtdDruryLaneStLeonards-on-SeaEastSussexTN389BJ01424720477Nextissueonsale18thOctober2014Copyright2010RavenspointPressLtd.Allrightsreserved.ISSN1476-6469DistributionWarnersGroupPublicationsPlcTheMaltingsWestStreetBourneLincolnshirePE109PH01778391000FrontCoverInCannaHarbourbyRogerButlerBackCoverStepsoftheinnerfortofDunMorVaulTireebyMavisGulliver 04SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERMARCHAPRIL20094SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014GuestColumnistJimAllenreflectsonconnectionswithScottishWestCoastislandsTakea55-year-oldnorthIrishcoastnativegrowingupwithtalesofScottishfamilyconnectionsandsharedhistorieswhosusedtoseeingIslayJuraandKintyrepeeringalluringlyoverthehorizononcleardays.Add25yearsofplayingontheseaincludingseveraljourneystotheHebridesanditsnotsurprisingthathemightaspiretoexploretheWesternIsleswheneveropportunityandavailablemoniescoincide.Withapassionforlocalhistoryandstory-tellingIfindmymindinflamedandinspiredbytheseaandcoastalpeoples.ImoftendreamingupexcursionstotheScottishislands.AsafamilywemakeeveryefforttoholidayalongthewestcoastanditsislandslastyearcampingbyArranslovelyLochranzawithawell-worncopyofTalesofParaHandystashedinmydunnage.AmongmymostnotablevisitsweretwoseparatevoyagestoIonabycurrachskinnedandtarredrowingvesseloncein1997laterin2003.OnourfirsttripmygirlfriendJaniceshadowedourvoyagebyroadmeetingmeonIonafromwherewesetofftovisitBarra.WhilereturningontheRoadtotheIslesbytheshoresofLochEiltsheagreedtobecomeMrsAllen.LessthansixmonthslaterwewerehoneymooninginRhenigadaleNorthHarris.Subsequentlyoursecond-bornsonwasnamedJamesHarrisAllen.SomedaywewillfollowthearchipelagofromBarratoLewisandshowhimtheislandthatinspiredhisfamousmiddlename.Eachjourneyhasspawnedmanyfriendshipsandfellowshipsbutonelittleislandiscurrentlyclosetoourhearts.WehavespentmanygreatdaysandnightsonGighawithourclosefriendJohnknownasTheAmbassadorMartinaretiredCampbeltowncarpenterandaffableshipmate.Aspartofalittleceilidhbandwevealsohadthegreatpleasureofprovidingceolaguscraicfortheisland.ScottishIslandsExplorerhelpskeepusconnected.Tiaraidhandrasdaagustapadhleibh.JimAllenAnideologicalmovementisacollectionofpeoplemanyofwhomcouldhardlybakeacakefixacarsustainafriendshiporamarriageorevendoaquadraticequationyettheybelievetheyknowhowtoruletheworld.ProfessorKennethMinogueisquotedintheDailyTelegraph.Itissimilartotheoldsayingthatthosewhocandothosewhocantteach.Votersarenotinclinedtopostthankyounotesthroughballotboxes.TheinclinationistoprotecttheirintereststoprotestaboutastateofaffairsorinatypicalBritishgesturetogivetheothersideaninnings.Whataretermedpoliticalearthquakesarenotalwaysasseismicastheyappear.UKIPundoubtedlyvictoriousinthe2014EuropeanElectionswasactuallysupportedbyonlyoneinelevenofregisteredvoters.Soanideologicalmovementseldomhasthemajorityofpeoplebehindit.Theimmediatepost-waryearswitnessedtheBritishCommunistPartygainapowerfulholdonsectionsoftheTradesUnionmovement.Yettheyhadthesupportofonlyabout3ofmembers.Thatwasofcoursequitesufficientwhenonly5turneduptovote.SotheScottishReferendumonThursday18SeptembergivesvotersinScotlandastraightnevertobeconfusedwithasimplechoice.Theyarebeingaskednotsomuchaboutpoliticalmattersbuttoconsideranddecideonwhatisliterallyaquestionofstate.Itisanhistoricalissuewithlong-lastingfutureconsequencesthatisbeingpromotedandopposedbyhere-today-and-gone-tomorrowpoliticians.Smallcountriescansurviveandthrivealthoughtheyhavetendedtoevolveratherthansuddenlybecreated.Unionsoftenleadtodivorceevensometimeswithoutrancour.HoweverwhentheresultisknownanddisappointmentsexpressedmanywillfeelanaffinitywiththatoldAmericanpost-electionremarkThepeoplehavespokenthebastardsItstheaftermathofaYesvotethatcouldhaveratherdauntingconsequences.AletterbyasubscriberandcontributorJohnNugeefirstappearedinTheTimesandwasthenreprintedinTheWeek.HeponderedthatasthetermshaveyettobenegotiatedScotscouldruethefinalityofthevoteon18Septemberandthelackofachancetoseethetermsofthedealbeforetheydecidewhethertoacceptthem.IfnecessaryperhapsasecondballotshouldbearrangedtoseewhetherthetermsnegotiatedareconsideredacceptabletotheelectorateJohnHumphriesEDITORSWELCOME DepartBelmonttheferryterminalatthesouthendofUnstandwithintwomilestaketheright-handturningtoUyeasound.Ifyouwantahostelitshere.IfyoupreferaboothfromthedaysoftheHanseaticLeaguegonofurther.IfyoucangettoUyeaashortboatrideawaytaketheopportunitytoseewhatsleftofthesplendidHallthatwasownedbytheformerlocalMPwithamagnificentnameSirBasilHamiltonHebdenNeven-Spence1888-1974.HeadtowardsMunesstoexplorethecastlethathasbeenpreservedandthenyouhaveachoice.EithergonorthbyfootovertrackstoSandwickorturnsouthtotheNessofRamnageo.FromherearefineviewsofHaafGruneywherein1745twogirlsreturningtoUyeainanopenboatwerecaughtinastormandblownacrosstheseatoNorway.Heretheywerehelpedashorebefriendedmarriedandraisedfamiliessomedescendantsofwhichremaintoday.OnyourreturnorifyoudecidetolingerthereisafinecafCastleCoffeeLoungeforrefreshment.TheownerwillgiveyouawarmwelcomeandifyoumentionScottishIslandsExplorertherecouldbeatreatonoffer.Visionfor2020Anotherholidayseasonisinfull-swingbutthistheSeptemberOctoberissuemarksthebeginningofthefinalphaseoftheyear.Itswhenopportunitiesareavailabletotakeadvantageoflowerrateslesscrowdingandleisurelybreaks.Snowbirdsusuallyrefertoretiredpeoplemigratingsouthbutwhereself-cateringaccommodationhaseffectiveinsulationandheat-sourcesthereissomethingtobesaidaboutbeingcontrarianheadingnorthandbecomingthemaverickholiday-maker.QuizAirportsDavidHoultindicatesthateveryairportintheworldwhichoperatesscheduledserviceshasauniquethree-lettercodeallocatedbytheInternationalAirTransportAssociationIATA.SoforexampleLondonHeathrowisLHRandGlasgowInternationalisGLA.NametheScottishislandairportswhichareidentifiedbythefollowingcodes.1.CSA2.BRR3.FOA4.BEB5.ILY6.KOI7.SYY8.LSI9.TRE10.FIEAnswersonpage50UyeasoundandBeyondPhotographofthebeachatSandwickbyPromoteShetlandwww.shetland.orgwww.scottishislandsexplorer.comForBackground-Information-SubscriptionsBinders-DVDs-ArchiveCDsNow...On-lineDigitalIssuesClarificationThephotographsthataccompaniedthearticleTheSecretIsland-TowardsaHistoryofTireeintheJulyAugust2014issueweretakenbyMavisGulliverwww.mavisgulliver.co.ukSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER5 BornaBeachcomber-TheStoryofThomasMathiesonastoldtoSteveMathiesonTheShetlandTimes12.99978-1-904746-89-8isaboutthechannelsconnectionsconditionsandcareersthatfeatureinonemanslife.HewasbornandgrewuprightattheendofoneofBritainsmostnortherlyroadsservedonshippingroutesinbothhemispheresduringtheSecondWorldWarandwasaprisonerofwaronaGermanshipintheIndianOceanaswellasinanItalianSomalilandcamp.ThefinalphaseofhismilitaryservicewasontheRiverThamesastretchofwaterwhichwastobecomeevenbetterknowntohimthroughacivvystreetpostwiththePortofLondonAuthority.HemetandmarriedHeleninLondonwheretheysettledinCharlton.FamilyholidaysweretakenatthefamilyhomeinUnstwhichdrewhimbackinretirement.HisbeachcombingtendenciesasaboywerespottedbyaGermancaptainlaterinlife.Thisbookisagreatfindforallofusonlifesshores.TheEnglishspokenbyShetlandersisbothclearandattractivebutthereareoccasionswhendialectsoundsandreferencesconfusetheoutsider.ThisisnotsurprisingforahybridoflanguageshasdevelopedfromvariouspeoplesspeakingLowlandScotsNornfromScandinavianrootsandtheDutchofvisitingfishermen.EventhepronunciationofthemaintownvariesamongislandersfromLerWEEKtoLerICKtoLerOOK.SoMirdsoWirds-AShetlandDialectWordBookTheShetlandTimes8.99978-1-904746-91-1isahandyhelpintimeoflinguistictrouble.Itisnotadictionarybutaselectionofwordsthatclarifiesthewaysandmeansofcommunicatingsuchmattersasweatherconditionsplace-namesfoodflowersbirdssheepclothesandcustoms.Itisbroughttolifebyattractivephotographsanditslayoutiseasyontheeye.Bylookinggooditassistseffectivehearing.ChristopherNicholsonhasproducedatributetohislife-longfriendtheauthorwriterandphotographerRogerRedfernwithACountrysideCameraWhittlesPublishing12.99978-1-84995-101-2.Redfernwroteaboutandrecordedhistravelsforover50yearsbecomingaregularcontributortotheCountryDiaryfeatureinTheGuardian.HereisacornucopiaofimagesofanditemsaboutEnglandWalesandScotland.BuyandkeepwatchingfornewsoftheintendedsequelsAMountainCameraandAnIslandCamera.Otters-ReturntotheRiverbyLaurieCampbellandAnnaLevinBirlinn14.99078-1-78027-206-1focusesontheEurasianottertheonlywildtypeinBritainandlooksparticularlyattheTweedanditstributariesintheSouthernUplandsofScotland.HoweverthereisachapterontheWesternShoreswithmemorableimagesoftheArdnamurchanMullandNorthHarris.HuntingtoxicchemicalsandincreasingroaddeathswereresponsibleforadeclineinthenumbersofLutralutrabutrecoveryhastakenplaceandthispublicationisacelebratoryrecordofthefact.INSIGHTS6SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014RecordingWaysandMeans SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER7INSIGHTSTheoysterplantmertensiamaritimaisdescribedinRarePlantsofShetlandWalterScottetal2002asnationallyscarceanddeclininginShetlandduetograzingextractionofbeachmaterialseverestormsandtransplantstogardens.Itcanoccasionallybefoundinwhatmightseemtobeanunlikelyhabitatamongthebouldersandgravelofstormbeaches.TheseedisseaborneallowingnewcoloniestobeestablishedandtwoplantswereseenonabeachneartheSouthLighthouseonFairIslein1990.ThesitewasfencedoffbyBirdObservatorystafftoprotectthemfromgrazingsheepandwithintenyearssome20plantswerewellestablishedandflowering.On4February2013duringaseverestormafreakwavesweptoverthesiteandinlandsomedistance.Thewavewassolargeandpowerfulthatitdestroyedalargepartoftheadjacentlighthousewall.Thestormbeachmusthavebeenundermanyfeetofwaterinturmoil.Itwasfearedthattheextremeconditionsmighthavewipedouttheoysterplantbutithasprovedtoberesistanttowhatmusthavebeenmassivedisturbance.Theplanthasre-establisheditselfonthesamesiteandtherearenowmorethan30ofthemmanyfloweringinJuly2014.JeffreyStonedrawsourattentiontotheseandMargaretStonetookthephotographs.AuthorandregularcontributorRichardClubleyhadtheopportunitytoarrangeatshortnoticeaday-triptoSwonainthePentlandFirth.ThisOrkneyislandhasseldombeenvisitedsinceitwasabandonedin1971.Itscattlewereleftandprovedtoberesilientbybecomingferal.Theywerenotdisturbedonthisoccasionasinsufficientpeopleindicatedparticipation.ProspectivefuturetripswillbeflaggedwellinadvanceforbothSwonaandStromatothesouthhavetheirisland-watchers.Thelatterhasaquayingoodconditionandarangeofhousesthatlooksubstantialatleastfromtheoutside.Theywereabandonedintheearly90swhentheCaithnessCouncilprovidednewharbourfacilitieswhichwerepromptlyusedfordeparturepurposes.Theresilienceofexplorersespeciallythoseassociatedwithislandsisalwaysremarkable.NickHancockssuccessfulrecordattempttoliveonRockallformorethansixweeksisratherspecial-forhehadcomparativelylittletoexplore.TheisletisminuteandhisRockPodwassecurelyfastenedtotheonlylevelarea-the10x4HallsLedge.Solookathisblogatwww.rockallsolo.comandconsiderdonatingtotheassociatedandappropriatecharity-HelpforHeroes.DavidWattskipperofPeterhead-basedtrawlerGenesisBF505saidtheywerefishingontheeastsideandweretowingtheirnetspasttherockwhenforthefirsttimetheyspottedhim.Heresthephotographtakenthen.InsularandResilient 8SCOTTISHISLANDEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014InspiredbyTiree InspiredbyTireeSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER9MavisGulliverrevealshowherCryatMidnightevolvedInspiredbyTireeTireewithitswealthofsandybeachesandhugeexpanseofskyisaninspirationtomanypeople.Portrayedinpaintingsandphotographsanddescribedinpoetryitisastunninglybeautifulisland.MyvisitshavebeeninordertowalkasmuchoftheislandaspossibletotakeaboattripouttotheSkerryvorelighthouseandtolearnaboutthelandscapehistoryandwildlife.IalwayshopetowriteapoemthatcapturestheessenceofeachislandthatIvisit.OnTireeIfoundmyselfcomparingtheviewfromourcottagewindowtoawovenpicture.Thelinesoffencesthechangeofonetypeofvegetationtoanotherandtheskylineformedthewarp.Fencepostsandreedsbecametheweftwhileslubsofknottedwoolrepresentedtheyellowirisheads.IfoundinspirationinthecontrastinglandscapeofTheReefAnRuigheandKenavaraCeannaMharaorCeannaBharra.TheformerbeingaflatexpanseofmachairwhichwasusedasanairportintheSecondWorldWarbutisnowanRSPBReserve.ThelatterbeingthewildestcornerofTireewithdramaticcliffsandtheremainsofStPatricksChapelwhichdatesbacktotheyear700.AStoryforChildrenPoetrywasforemostinmymindbutbytheendofthefortnightsholidayIwasdeeplyinvolvedinastoryforchildren.WhyWheredidtheideacomefromWheredoesanyideacomefromThisquestionisfrequentlyaskedbyadultsandchildrenalike.Ithinktheanswerhastobe-fromanywhere.Anobjectaplacearabbitdivingintoarabbitholecanallbestartingpoints.Itisacaseofbeingobservantofusingallonessensesandgivingfreereintotheimagination.IdeasoftencomefromthemostunexpectedsourcesandthatiswhathappenedtomeonTiree.Closetothecottagewherewewerestayingwasanisolatedfencepost.Itwasoldtwistedandweatheredtoasilver-greybutitimmediatelyfilledmewithexcitementandenthusiasm.Viewedfromthreesidesitwasnothingmorethanafencepostbutfromthefourthitwasintheroughshapeofahorseshead.Icouldseethemuzzlethenostrilandtheeye.Andalthoughthetwoearsweresomewhatsplinteredtometheyweredefinitelyhorsesears.Fromthatsimplebeginningastorybegantotakeshape.AnErraticBoulderIwalkedtotheRingingStonewhichliesonthecoastbetweenBalephetrishandVaul.IlearnedthatitwasanerraticbouldercarriedfromRumduringthelastIceAgeandthatitwasmadeofgranodioriteamuchyoungerrockthanTireesancientLewisianrock.Iwasimpressedbytheinscribedcupandringmarkswhichdatebacktoaround2000BC. PreviousPageThewhiteshellsandbeachofTraighnanGileanwiththerockyheadlandofCeannaMharaKenavarabeyond.MavisGulliverAboveThelocationofFangant-SitheinTheFairyFankisnotgivenontheCollTireeExplorerMap.MavisGulliverOppositeTopFromthebookcoverRichardGulliverOppositeBelowTheauthorseatedontheRingingStonegivesasenseofscaletothishugecup-markederraticboulder.RichardGulliver10SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014IreadstoriesoffolkloreofhowiftheRingingStonebreaksordisappearsTireewillvanishbeneaththesea.Butmyimaginationtookmeinadifferentdirection.IwalkedtotheStoneagain.Iclimbedupandsatontopofit.Iwalkedroundit.Ilaymycheekagainstittappeditwithapebbleandlistenedtotheincredibleringingsound.InexperiencingthemagicoftheRingingStoneIrealisedthatthestoryhadtobefilledwithmagic.Itwouldbeforyoungreaders.ItwouldbeafantasyadventureandtheStonewouldhavetoplayaveryimportantpart.InthestrangeshapeofthefencepostIhadfoundabeginningformystory.IntheRingingStoneIhadfoundanend.NowIneededamiddleAsHumansonLandIwatchedsealsbothcommonandgreyandalmostwithoutmyintendingtoincludeoneaSelkieappearedinmystory.Selkiesaresaidtobesealswhichliveintheseabutwhichcanappearashumansonland.IreadSelkiestoriesfromdifferentculturesandfoundthemtohaveremarkablysimilarelements.Iborrowedsomeoftheideasbutalsodevelopedideasofmyown.IimaginedthehorseasarealhorsevisitingtheplacesIvisited.IthoughthowwonderfulitwouldbetogallopalongthesandsofTraighnanGilleaninthewestandalongGottBayintheeast.IexploredDunMorbrochafortifiedstructurewhichdatesfromaround60AD.Theparallelwallsenclosingstepsandchamberswerefascinating.Besidesshardsoflocalpotteryexcavationstherehaverevealedbronzeandsilverringsglassbeadsacombcarvedfromboneanditemswhichwereusedforbothweavingandfortheworkingofmetals.ThebrochitselfandtheitemsfoundwithinitcouldallhavefoundaplaceinmystorybutthereweretoomanyideasforonebookandIhadtoleavethemout.AnIdealHidingPlaceIreadofasouterrainfromtheFrenchsousterrainmeaningunderground.ThisIronAgestructuremayhavebeenalarderorahidingplaceintimesofinvasion.IwastoldthatithadbeenfilledinbutknowingtheonesonCannaIcouldimagineitsstone-linedwallsandroof.Thefactthatno-onecouldtellmeitspositionmadeitanidealhidingplaceforoneofmycharacters. InspiredbyTireeSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER11InCollandTireebyErskineBeveridgefirstpublishedin1903IcameacrossareferencetoFangant-Sithean-theenclosureorfankofthefairies.Thissoundedlikeanidealplacetosetoneofmyscenes.Imadeafewenquiriesbutlikethesouterrainno-oneIaskedcouldconfirmitslocation.IexpecttherearepeoplewhoknowbutIhadtogoonwhatIcoulddiscoveratthetime.Withamixtureofdetailsfromthebooksomejudiciousmap-readingandacarefulscanningofthelandscapeIwasabletofindthissmallbutdistinctgreenmound.Ithasbecomeamajorlocationinmystoryandisdescribedindetail.IhavepurposelynotdescribedthelocationherebelievingthatIhavegivensufficientcluesforanyonewhoreallywishestofindit.CarriedtoTireeAsIwanderedroundTireeIcollectednaturalobjectssomeofwhichhaveimportantrolesinmystory.Ifoundyellowperiwinkleshellsasnailshelltingedwithdeeppurplelinesandastoneintheshapeofaheart.Ipickedupasea-beanatropicalfruitcarriedtoTireebyoceancurrentsandahag-stone-astonewithaholethroughitthatissaidtorepelwitches.Placesandobjectsswirledtogetherinmymind.Thestoryhasgrownintoa57000wordnovelandwillbepublishedbyCinnamonPressintimeforlaunchingattheIslayBookFestivalduringthefirstweekendofOctober2014.Neitherthecharactersnortheplotwillletmego.QuiteunexpectedlythisbookCryatMidnighthasbecomethefirstpartofatrilogy.PartsTwoandThreewillfindmere-visitingotherislands.Therewillbereferencestoreallocationstherewillbecontinuedadventuresandtherewilldefinitelybemoremagic.AsIwroteatthebeginningofthearticleitisacaseoflettingmyimaginationtakeflight.OverandabovethatIhavetothankTireeforthefencepostwhichtriggeredthestory-andfortheislanditselfforprovidingsuchabeautifulandinspiringlocation. 12SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014VisitScottishislandsaboardoursmallshipsfromObanStKildaMingulayShiantsMonachsScarpFlannansetc.Seewildlifesuchaseaglespuffinsdolphinsbaskingsharkswhalessealsottersetc.Fourormorenightsaboard.Greatfood.Max12guests.01631740595forbrochuresorseewebwww.northernlight-uk.comemailinfonorthernlight-uk.comARCTURUSThepolararmofFarFrontiersTravelLtdPleasecallforafullcolourbrochure.Small-groupexpeditionstoArcticNorwaytheSolovetskiIslandsofArcticRussiaGreenlandandKamchatka.ArcticandAntarcticvoyagesbyship.Dogsleddingcrosscountryskiingboatingkayakinghikingandwildlifetrips.Tailor-madeIcelandwithflightsfromGlasgow.WildScotlandObantoAberdeen20-30June2015AcrosstheArcticCircleAberdeentoSpitsbergen30June-13July2015ScotlandtoNorwaycrossingtheArcticCircleAberdeentoTromso27May-9June2015IcelandCircumnavigation26August-6September2015NinestoneSouthZealDevonEX202PZTelFax4401837840640www.arcturusexpeditions.co.uk SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER13WhereLighthousesProvideAccommodationShetlandgivessheltertoshippingandlighttoseafarers.Threeofitslighthouseshavebeenconvertedtoprovideaccommodation-withfacilitiesavailablethroughtheShetlandAmenityTrustatBressayEshanessandnowSumburgh.A5.2millionschemeopenedearlierthisyearbyPrincessAnnehascreatedaVisitorCentrealongsidetheexistingRSPBNatureReserveandrenovateditsformerkeepersquartersintohigh-classfacilitiesforoccupancy.Therearemanyreasonsforvisitingandstaying.Aboveallisitsheight-atover300abovesealevelwithfineviewsandobservationplatformswithinthecomplex.Anotherisitslocation-atthefootofShetlandMainlandwithinwalkingdistanceofSumburghAirportandapproachedbyaroadconstructedforeasyaccess.ThereisalsoitsiconicsignificanceasthesecondCoastalStationtobementionedintheBBCShippingForecast.ThereisthehighseasonfromMay-Augustwhenvisitorswillbearoundfrom10.00-16.00dailyandtheexclusivetimeduringtherestofthedayandfromSeptember-Aprilwhenoccupantsoftherestoredkeepersquarterswillenjoyitsluxuryontheirown.Thatisapartfromthewildlifethatproliferatesonthiscliffwhichisahavenforcoloniesofbirdsandtheseawherethereisconstantmotionaswellasthepassageofwhalesandvessels.AConvivialPlaceTherefurbishmentprogrammehasbeenthoughtfulandusedtheskillsoflocalpeople.Thedesigngivesspaceforalargedoublebedroomasinglebedroomandabunkroom.Thebathroomsareattractiveandtheutilityroomisequippedforwashinganddryingclothes.Thesittingroomhasalarge-screentelevisionandthekitchenwithitsAgacookerisaconvivialplaceforpreparationeatingandsocialising.Undereverythingthereisthewarmthofunderfloorheatingandinternetaccessisaclickaway.ThecustodianoftheaccommodationisNikkiMarriottassistedbyherhusbandTony.Theyhavethatknackofmakingyoufeelathomeandwillastimegoesbyacquiremanynewcontactsamongvisitors.Theyalreadyhaveasignificantnumberofconnectionsthroughtheirsharedhobbyofamateurradioservicesanditsvariousmessagingsystemsthroughouttheworld.Theirlifeandworktakesthemfromonehubtoanother.Althoughlightfeaturesthroughouttheeight-roomedself-cateringhousedoesnothavemultipleviewsouttosea.Theyaretobefoundinabundanceoutside.Howeverfromthesingle-bedroomwindowthereisFairIsleframed.AsevermemoriescameofthefirstyearsinthelifeofScottishIslandsExplorerwhichwasfoundedthere.Themagazinecontinuestoattractreadersjustasthisaccommodationwillbecomeamagnetfortemporaryresidentskeentorelishwhatisonofferinthisveryspecialplace.FurtherInformationwww.shetlandlighthouse.com01595694688infoshetlandamenity.orgJackPalfreyexperiencedShetlandAmenityTrustsLatestVentureWhereLighthousesProvideAccommodationShetlandLighthouseHolidayswww.shetlandlighthouse.comTel01595694688E-mailinfoshetlandamenity.orgForfurtherinformationandbookingcontactShetlandAmenityTrustGarthspoolLerwickShetlandZE10NYSpectacularlocations...allthecomfortsofhomeTheShetlandAmenityTrustisaregisteredScottishcharityNoSC017505 14SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014Thisisaremarkablepropertywithestablishedandflexiblebusinesspotential.Hereisahouseandformer-schoolrecentlyrestoredtoahighstandard.Itisahomewiththreedoublebedroomstwokitchensadiningroomandguestslounge.Thereisalsosubstantialprivatelivingaccommodation.Seaviewstotheeastandwestoutstandingbeachestothenorth.Itisbeingrunasaguesthousecoffeeloungeprivatediningfacilityandawritersretreat.ThereareplansinplacetohouseShepherdHutcampingunitsintheextensivepicturesquegardens.Ithaspotentialfortheheadquartersofasmallcompanyusingitsformerschool-roomsasalargeofficeandmeetingarea.Thepresentownersaremovingabroadandwillincludemuchfurniturekitchen-equipmentandsuppliesintheagreedprice.Thisisawalkintakeoveropportunity.Offersover250000www.newquoy.comFORSALENewquoyBurnessSandayOrkneyKW172AZ RobertLouisStevensonchosetospendthefinalyearsofhislifeinSamoawhichcompriseseightsmallandtwolargeislandsSavaiiandUpolu.Hechosethelastonewithitspleasantlywarmclimateandcoolingsouth-easttradewindsfromMayuntilNovember.ItisthemostpopulatedislandwithabusycapitalApaimunicipalfacilitiesabusinesscommunityaninternationalairporteducationalestablishmentsincludingtheRobertLouisStevensonCollegeaswellasanaturalharbourfromwhichfishandcopraareexported.Traditionsaboundincludingthemalefashionofwearingthelavacolourfulmaterialwrappedaroundthewaist.ThroughoutSamoafamilyprayerstakeplaceearlyeveryevening.Asamarkofrespectalltouristsarerequestednottowalkthroughthevillagesthen.Asignalissoundeddeepandpenetratingfromaconchshell.InApiawhenlocalwomenarereturninghomeladenwithshoppingitisnotuncommontoseethemplacetheirbagsonthesandandwalkfullyclothedintotheseatocooldownandchat.StartedandFinishedinaDayTheislandhasanabundanceofcoconuttreesknownlocallyasTheTreeofLifewithmanyessentialuses.Themostimportantisthebuildingofhouseswheretwolayersoffrondskeeptheroofswatertight.Theblindsarealsowovenfromtheleavesasarebasketsandhats.Anewhousecanbestartedandfinishedinadaybyco-operativeneighbours.Whenanewcanoeisrequiredthemenworkinharmonyfromselectingandcuttingatreetocarvingitout.Theycannavigatethroughthesurroundingreefstoreachthelargeshoalsoffish.StevensonresidedonSamoawithhisfamilyforfiveyearsandwasknowntotheislandersasTusitalathetelleroftales.In1890hepurchasedtheestateofVailimaa300-acrecoconutplantationatthefootofMountVaeathreemilesfromApia.OntheeveningofMonday3December1894therewasanairofexcitementinthefamilyhome.RLSwasinthekitchenhelpinghiswifeFannytopreparetheeveningmealwhenheraisedhishandtohisheadandsaidWhatapainDoIlookstrangeHisvaletandFannyhelpedhimtoalargechairinthemainhallwherehetippedintounconsciousness.HackingaPathThateveningattentoeightScotlandsfamouswriterdiedwithoutregainingconsciousness.ItwaswellknownthroughouttheislandthatTusitalawhowasreveredasachieftainaccustomedtosettlingdisputeswantedtobelaidtorestatthetopofMountVaea1388high.Manymenworkedtirelesslyhackingapaththroughtherainforesttilltheyreachedthesummit.Oncompletionthewritersbodywassolemnlycarriedtothetopofthemountwherehewaslaidinaconcretetomb.OntwosidesofhistombtherearebothEnglishandSamoanbronzeplaques.HisfamilyhomeVillaVailimawaseventuallyconvertedintoamuseum100yearsandtwodaysafterhisdeath.HerearefirstandrareeditionsaswellaspersonalartefactsoftheacclaimedandreveredScottishwriter.ItissomehowreassuringthattheplacewhereRobertLouisStevensondiedisanislandonwhichtherearetreasurescommemoratingboththewriterandhisworks.SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER15JohnNoreenSteelerealisehowRLSistreasuredonanislandISLANDSBEYONDLeftVillaValimanowtheRobertLouisStevensonMuseum.RightTombofthewriter.ThephotographsaresuppliedbyJohnSteele. StromnessBluePlaques16SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014IarrivedinStromnessonacloudymorninginnocentlydrivingthroughanarrowpart-cobbledpart-pedestrianisedwarrenofroadsthattookmefromJohnStreetinthenorthtoSouthend.AsInavigatedmywayroundtightcornersIclockedanumberofblueplaquesaddingasplashofcolourtopredominantlygreybuildingsandhavingparkedclosetooneoftheseTheCannonIsetofftoexploretheStromnessBluePlaqueHeritageTrail.Locatedinthesouth-westofWestMainlandOrkneyclosetothewesternentrancetoScapaFlowshipsseaandharbourwereclearlygoingtospeakloudlyontheseplaquesandsoitwaswiththefirst.ReputedtohavebeensalvagedfromanAmericanprivateerLibertywhichsurrenderedintheharbourin1813thecannonfoundanafterlifefiringsalutestotheHudsonsBayCompanyshipscominginandoutofStromness.Schoolboyhistoryreturnedtomeofacompanydatingto1670engagedchieflyinCanadasfurtrade.Stromnessmenfiguredprominentlyandmanyheardthecannonastheyslippedoutofharbour.Thereisabenchbyittoreposeandtakeintheviewwithhousesclingingtothecliffandmaybeaferryintheharbour.FamedShipsContinuingdownhilltowardsthetownIcameacrosssomethingthatwasindisputablynotablueplaquebutaplaquenevertheless.LoginsWellwastheplacewhereHudsonsshipswateredbetween1670and1891andfamedshipsberthinghereincludedCaptainCooksResolutionandDiscovery17801andSirJohnFranklinsArcticexplorersErebusandtheaptly-namedTerror18452.Thewellwassealedin1931.HereaboutsistheformerLoginsInnassociatedwiththewellandbirthplaceofSirJohnLogin1809-63intriguinglyguardianofDuleepSinghdeposedMaharajaofthePunjab.Theone-timeinnoverlooksthewaterandonecanwellimaginethecarousingthatwentonhereintimespast.OnthenextcornerIfoundtheStromnessMuseuminstitutedin1837andrefurbishedin2000.AmongthemanyfascinatingexhibitsareremainsofoneofthetorpedoeswhichsankHMSRoyalOakinOctober1939inScapaFlowwiththelossof834hands.IwasgratifiedtopickupaguideshowingmethelocationsofallblueplaquesreassuringlyconfirmingthatIhadmanagedtostartatoneendofthetrail.TheBardofOrkneyAcrossthesquarewasthehomeofGeorgeMackayBrown1921-96poetwholivedherefrom1968untilhisdeathandhasbeendescribedasTheBardofOrkney.NominatedfortheBookerPrize1994Brownwasagreatwitandtraditionalistwhowroteforhourswithhistrustybiro.ArmedwithmyguideIstrodeonwiththeconfidenceofamanwhoknewwheretolook.WhenIgottoRaesCloseIfoundtwomoreplaques.RaesClosecommemoratesDrJohnRae1813-1893ArcticexplorerwhofoundhiseponymousRaeStraitthemissinglinkintheNorthWestPassageandinsodoingsolvedthemysteryofFranklinsdoomedexpedition.InfourseparateexpeditionsRaetravelledover3500milesonfootintheArcticandtracedover1750milesofunknownArcticcoastline.DownbythepierintheharbourisafinestatueofRaeunveiledforthe200thanniversaryofhisbirth.AsifthisdoesntconveystarklyenoughtheperilsoflifeintheicewealsohaveMrsHumphreysHouseatemporaryhospitalover1835-36forscurvyriddenwhalemenwhohadbeentrappedintheiceformonths.StromnessmenthoughtnothingoftakingonsomeofthemostinhospitableplacesonEarth.StephenRobertsdelvesintotheirconnectionsStromnessBluePlaques 18SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014HudsonsBayCompanyAlittlefurtherdownonthenextcorneroppositeStromnessLibraryisTheHavenfromwhichHudsonsBayCompanyagentsoperatedsigningmanyOrcadiansintoservice.OneagentwasthefatherofJohnRae.ServicetotheseacontinuedwiththenextplaquedownDundasStreetwhichrecalledtheimportanceoftheStromnessLifeboattothisislandcommunity.HerewastheformerRNLILifeboatStation1901-2001althoughthefirstStromnessboatSaltairedatedbackto1867basedatNessandpoweredbysailandoars.OvertheyearsStromnessboatssavedover300livesatestamenttothecourageofcrewsoperatingoutoftheexposediron-hardwestsideofOrkney.3AshorthikefurtherdownDundasStreetbroughtmetoElizaFrasershouseaheroineshipwreckedoffAustraliasGreatBarrierReefin1836capturedbyAboriginesandlaterbecomingalegendaryfigureinAustralianhistory.ReturningtoEnglandherstorywassensationalisedpickedupbywritersandartistsandeveninmorerecenttimesfilm-makers.AnIndependentBurghContinuingintoVictoriaStreetbroughtmetothehouseofanotherlocalheroAlexanderGrahamwholedlocalsresistingtheRoyalBurghofKirkwallanditstaximpositionsasangergrewamongStromnessmerchantscontributingtoKirkwallstaxrevenuesactionsleadingtoStromnessbecominganindependentburgh.ItwasanexpensivefighthoweverwhichwenttotheHouseofLordsandsawbraveGrahamimprisonedandruinedfinancially.ThePierArtsCentreisacommunityhubthesedaysbutformerlythebuildingfromwhichtheever-presentHudsonsBayCompanyrecruitedOrcadiansforserviceinCanada1836-67.HavingwalkedfromthecliffsdowntoharbourlevelIfeltthatIwasnowverymuchinthecentreofStromness.ThestatueofRaewasclosebyasweregiftshopsandeateries.OneplaqueIcouldnotfindwasthatontheRiceWarehousedatingfromthe1760sandusedfortheAmericanricetradeatthetimeoftheSevenYearsWar1756-63.ThereasonIcouldnotlocateitwasclearenoughasthebuildingwasundergoingextensiverestoration.AnotherplaqueIhaddifficultyfindingwasPreviousPageTopTheCannonBelowLoginsWell.BelowAlexanderGrahamsHouse.OppositeLeftStatueofDrJohnRae.OppositeTopPlaqueonMrsHumphreysHouse.OppositeBelow1716doorwayattheMillersHouse.AllphotographsaccompanyingthisarticlehavebeensuppliedbythecontributorStephenRoberts.StromnessBluePlaques StromnessBluePlaquesSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER19MillersHousebutonlybecauseitwastuckedawayupaflightofsteps.Itwasworthperseveringthoughasherewasabuildingwithastonedoorwaydatingto1716StromnesssearliestdateablehousebelongingtoamerchantfamilynamedMiller.AccompanyingthedateisanicepithyepigraphGodsProvidenceMyInheretancesic.CommandingViewTherewasonemoreplaquebeyondtheferryterminalandtouristinformationlocatedonaprominentbuildinginJohnStreettheLieutenantsHousebuiltbyLtJamesRobertsonRN1780-1860whocommandedHMSBeresfordattheBattleofPlattsburgorPlattsburghavitalseabattlefoughttowardstheendofthe1812warwiththeUnitedStates.HerewasafinebuildingwithcommandingviewoftheharbourRobertsonwasclearlyamanofstandingrisingtoprominencefollowingdistinguishedserviceduringtheNapoleonicWars.Itwastimetoretracestepstomycarbackupbythecannon.Therainthatheldoffallmorningnowcamedownwithavengeancesothistravellercameinforadrenching.MyguidetoldmetherewasonefurtherplaquebeyondthecannonheadingsouthofStromnessbythegolfcourse.HerewasStangersDockyardwhereboatsandsailingvesselswerebuiltforaround100yearsuptothe1920s.WiththeraincomingdownverticallyIamashamedtosayIdidnotshowthesameelanastheseafarersofStromnesssettlingforaviewthroughacarwindow.Iwasmorethanhappythough.IhaddonethetrailandlearnedlotsaboutStromnessanditsrelationshipwiththesea.AllthosetalesofHudsonsBaytheArcticexplorerslostshipsandlifeboatshumbledmebutalsomademegratefulforthewarmthofmycarandthefeelofterrafirmaundermyfeet.1CooksthirdvoyageinsearchoftheNWPassageinwhichhewaskilledbyHawaiianislanders.2Franklinandallotherexpeditionmembersdiedonthisill-fatedmissiontofindtheNWPassage.3Hewisonpage85.FurtherInformationStromnessMuseumGuideandHeritageGuideADictionaryofBritishHistoryeditedJPKenyon1981ScapaFlowinWarandPeaceWSHewisonBattleofPlattsburghwww.battleofplattsburgh.org 20SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014TheLadyofStKildaJulieMundypondersthesignificanceofanameTheLadyofStKilda SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER21TheLadyofStKildaIhavenotyethadthechancetovisittheislandsoftheStKildaarchipelagoinScotlandsOuterHebrides-eventhoughIlivethere-wellafterafashion.YouseetheStKildaofmyhomeislocated11000milesawayandisabuzzinginner-cityhotspotonPortPhillipBayinMelbourneAustralia.ItsbothfigurativelyandliterallyaboutasfarawayasyoucangetfromthemagnificentwildandisolatedislandsofthenorthernhemisphereAsapopularbeach-sidepleasuredestinationStKildainMelbourneishighlyaccessibleflatandurbanisedwithacafeveryfewpaces.Sosurelyitsnamewasneverinspiredbyahome-sickimmigrantbeingremindedofthelandofhisbirthItmademewonderhowonearthweinheritedthenameofoneoftheworldsmoreremoteislandgroups.MyfirstclueisthefancifulmetalsculptureontherailwaybridgeIwalkpasteverydaydepictingTheLadyofStKilda.Alittleresearchonwikipaediaandinthelocallibraryarchivesrevealsanintriguingstory-oursuburbwasnamedafteraBritishschoonerTheLadyofStKildawhichwasbuiltinDartmouthandthentransportedfruitaroundtheMediterraneanforafewyearsuntilitwassoldtoSirThomasAcland.HenamedtheboatinhonourofhiswifeLydiawhohadvisitedtheislandsintheStKildagroupin1810.QuarantineStationSirThomassoldtheschoonerin1840toaPlymouthtraderwhoayearlatersailedittoAustraliaandmooredoffthepresent-dayStKildawhichatthattimewasthequarantinestationforScottishimmigrantsarrivinginMelbourne.TheareasoonbecameknownasTheStKildaForeshore.ThecaptainoftheshiplikedtheareasomuchheboughtthefirstparceloflandandsettledtherelaternamingthemainshoppingstreetaftertheshipsownerAcland.SowhenIknewStKildawasnamedafterashipnottheislandsinScotlandthisexposedagreatermystery-WhowastheoriginalLadyofStKildaShewasinfactan18thCenturyScottishwomanofhighbirthLadyRachelErskineofGrangewhoafter25yearsofmarriagehadadisharmoniousrelationshiphekeptmistressessheshoutedobscenitiesathiminpublicwithherhusbandJamesErskineofGrange.LordGrangealsohadothersecretsbesideshismistresses-hewasasupporteroftheHouseofStuartsclaimtothethronedespitebeingScotlandsLordJusticeClerk.Ifhisallegianceshadbeenknownanoosewouldhavebeenthelikelyoutcome.RachelLadyGrangehadacolourfulreputationandwasknownforherfierytemperandwildoutburstsbutthenhistoryofthattimeisoftentoldbymensoitsoftenhardtoseparatefactfromfiction.KidnappingOneeveningin1731LadyGrangeoverheardherhusbandfromwhomshewasbythistimeseparatedandagroupofJacobitenoblesplottingarebellion.Shethreatenedtoexposethemandtheyobviouslytookherthreatsseriouslyasherhusbandandhisco-conspiratorsarrangedforherkidnappingfromherhomeinEdinburghthefollowingday.Afteraviolentstruggleshewaswhiskedawayonhorsebackandherhusbandorganisedafakefuneralforherburyinganemptycoffinsothatpeoplewouldthinksheweredeadandnotaskfurtherquestions.Itobviouslyworkedasnoneofherninesurvivingchildrensomeofwhomwereadultsatthetimeofherdisappearancesubsequentlyendeavouredtofindher.LadyGrangewasbundledawaytoLinlithgowthenStirlingandsomemonthslaterintotheHighlandsandbeyondtoremoterislandswherethechancesofherbeingdiscoveredwereslim.ShewasfirsttakentoHeiskerinthelow-lyingMonachIslandseightmilesfromNorthUistandownedbySirAlexanderMacDonaldofSleat.Shewaskeptinisolationbythecaretakerandhiswifefortwoyears-andwasnoteventoldthenameoftheisland. 22SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014BleakExistenceIn1734RachelwastoldshewasbeingmovedtoOrkneybutwasinfacttakentoHirtaStKildasmainislandwhereshelivedforeightyearsinoneofthetinystonecleatsstoragehousessurvivingmainlyongannetmeat.Despitethereportedkindnessoftheislandersitmusthavebeenableakexistenceinsuchaharshenvironment.TheislandersspokeonlyGaelicwhichRacheldidnotalthoughsheapparentlylearneditpassablyafteratime.ShelivedonStKildalongerthananyotheroutsider.VisitorstoHirtatodaycanstillseehercleatinthevillagemeadows.Itwouldnotbehardtoimagineherroamingthebeachesatnightaslocaltaleshaveitwailingandbemoaningthefateshewasenduring.EventuallysothestorygoesshemanagedtoconvincetheMinisterofStKildatosmuggleoutalettershehadwrittentohercousinandlawyerinEdinburghtotellhimofherplight.Theletterstooktwoyearstoreachhimandwhentheydidtheycausedahugescandal.TheoriginallettersareheldintheEdinburghUniversityLibraryCollectionandprovideconfrontationaltopicsasshedescribesthebrutalityofherabduction.SecondFakeFuneralAshipwith20armedmenwasdispatchedtorescueherbuthercaptorsgotwindoftheattemptandmovedheragain-toUistandthentoAssyntinthefarNorthWestmainlandandeventuallytoSkye-sothatshecouldnotbefound.AsecondfakefuneralwasheldforherinDuirnishthewesternmostpartofSkyeperhapstoconvincetherescuersthatshehaddiedsotheywouldgiveuptheattempt.ItseemstheyweresuccessfulastheunfortunateLadyofStKildawasneverrescuedandisthoughttohavelivedoutherfinalyearsinacaveonSkyesWaternishPeninsulawhereshediedin1745after14yearsofmiserableimprisonment.Herfinal-andreal-funeralwasconductedatTrumpanChurchaboveArdmoreBayontheIsleofSkyewherehergravestonestillvisibleisbesidetheruinsoftheoldchurch.WhatatragicnamesakeYetRachelsmemorylivesonandnotjustintheWesternIslesofScotlandnoreveninEdinburghwhereherportraithangsintheNationalGalleryofScotlandbutalsounexpectedlysome11000milesawayinmyhometownofStKilda.TheLadyofStKildaPage20StKildaundercloud-JimRichardson.BelowOurLadyofStKildasculptureinEastStKilda-JulieMundy.OppositeaboveBirdonHirta-JimRichardson.BelowStKildaWestBeachwithMelbournecity-skylineinbackground-JulieMundy. SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER23TheLadyofStKildaVirtuallyeverythingaboutthemodernsettlementisasfarremovedaspossiblefromtheremoteStKildaarchipelago40milesorsooutintheAtlantic.YetsomeofitsresidentstodaymaywellbedescendedfromthoseimprisonedandthentransportedtoAustraliaasconvictsorfromthosewholeftoftheirownaccordincluding36StKildaislanderswhoemigratedtoAustraliaonboardthePriscillain1851seekinganewlifeinagentlerclime.TheunfortunateLadyGrangewasgivennosuchchoice.FurtherInformationMargaretMacaulayThePrisonerofStKildaTheTrueStoryoftheUnfortunateLadyGrangeLuathPressEdinburgh2009NamingofStKildaStKildaHistoricalSocietypublication TheCraignureBunkhouseopenedon24Maywhenitshighestecologicalstandardsbecameevidentwiththetotalheatingandhotwaterrequirementsbeingmet.Itispurpose-builtsleeps20inroomswithen-suitefacilitesisopenalltheyearroundandissituatedunderaquarter-of-a-milefromMullsmainferryterminal.Goodlocalbarsandrestaurantsarewithinthevicinityforthosewhodonotwishtoself-cater.ItisthevisionoflocalresidentsChrisandSarahJameswhosefamilyhavelivedontheislandforfivegenerationsandrecentlysoldTorosayCastle.Theyinvestedsomeoftheproceedsintothisexcitingnewaccommodationconcept.Pricesfrom19perpersonpernightincludelinen.Aresidentwardenisonhandtolookafterguests.Gotowww.craignure-bunkhouse.co.ukandthenifyouwouldliketosampleittherearetwofree-nightsonofferfortwocouplesavailablebyindicatinginteresttotheeditorscottishislandsexplorer.comThinkingofcruisinginthenearorforeseeablefutureThentimespentonreconnaissanceisneverwasted-withfinesourcesofinformationatTheCruiseShowtotakeplaceinGlasgowattheSECCon1112October2014.Everytypeofcruisingwillbetheretobeuncovered-fromsmall-shipadventuresandall-inclusiveultra-luxurysailingstoculturalrivercruisesandmodernresort-styleshipsthatareperfectforthewholefamily.Fivepairsofticketsareavailabletoreadersofthismagazine.Justinformeditorscottishislandsexplorer.comthatyouhaveaninterestinattending.SnugoversareanotherfeaturefromHeatHoldersandifyoucanbearthinkingaboutprospectivewintryconditionsconsiderthesenow.ThefleecejumperscomeinafishermanssmockstylewithastylishdrawstringfunnelneckandaremadefromHeatweaverthermalfurfabricwithatogratingof1.4.Thefirstthreereaderstoexpressaninterestbysendingtheirrequirementstoeditorscottishislandsexplorer.comwillreceiveafreejumper.LadiesBlackorPurpleSM6-12LXL14-22MenBlackorNavySM94-103LXL104-117chest24SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014GettingWarmREADERSOPPORTUNITIES SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER25READERSOPPORTUNITIESThereareapparentlyaround600websitesandblogsbeingcreatedthroughouttheworldeveryhour.Thatstenasecond.Someclamourtobeseennotedandacteduponothershaveownerswhoarepreparedtoletthemslipintooblivion.Thewaysandmeansofgettingthemoutintothepublicdomainaccessingandretaininganaudiencearecomplex.Expertsneedtobeconsultedandthisisbeingdone.InMay2011IdecidedthatScottishIslandsExplorerneededaday-to-dayservicewhereIcouldinputnewswhichotherscouldenjoyevenlearnfrom.Sojohn-humphries.blogspot.comprovidedtheoutputandthebloghasbeenupdatedeverydayforwelloverthreeyears.Around100-200individualstaketheopportunityofseeingwhatsthereduringthecourseof24hours.AnewventureisunderwayofgettingmyblogtweetsFacebookentrieswebsiteanddigitalissuesbroadcasttoalargeraudienceandallbeingwellboostthesalesofthepublication.ThereissomuchtocommendthesceneryatmospherelifeandworkoftheScottishislandsthatithasbecomealmostamissiontoencourageotherstofindoutmore.Wehavesubscriberswhoareactiveinsimilarworkwhetherbycontributingarticlespublishingbooksorcompilingblogs.RichardClubleyhadhisbookTheCapturingofIslandspublishedashortwhileagoanditwasfeaturedonthispage.MavisGulliverwillhavehadtwomorebookspublishedin2014andhernewwebsitewww.mavisgulliver.co.ukincludesablogaboutherimpressionsandideas.TheletterestandsintermsofcomputingforelectronicbutIliketothinkofitintermsofenthusiasm-forraisingawarenessforthosepassionsthatmotivateus.Thesynapsesinourbrainsbecomefusedwhensomethingexcitesus.Wewanttosharethisexcitementwithothersandherewearehavingaccesstothewaysandmeansofcommandingaworldwidepresence.Ifthereareoutthereotherwould-bepromotersoftheirbooksarticlesblogsinformationideasorganisationsoreventswhowouldliketoconsiderformingaconsortiumtoshareinterestsandexplorethenewtechnologiesofbroadcastingtowideraudiencesthendoletmeknow.Watchthisspacetodiscoverwhetherthereispotentialforteam-workinaddressingthecomplexissuesofbecomingbetterknown.WemayallendupattheCanavesOlaHotelinGreecewherethisimageoriginated-www.canaves.com-farfromScotlandbutwiththesensationofanislandsettingJohnHumphriesproposesaconsortium MarcoDadonewasbornin1970livesinNorthernItalyandisinlovewithphotographyForsometimehehasexperiencedadeepconnectionwiththeScottishislandsandwheneverhevisitsthemfeelsasthoughheiscominghome.HemainlyusesSigmacamerasandlikesthewaysinwhichFoveonsensorsallowbothhimandthosewhoappreciatehisworktocomeinsidethesubjectandtodiscoverfullywhatisthere.Intheintroductiontohiswebsitehethankshisvisitorsforbeingthere.Wethankhimforprovidinguswithagalleryofhisimagesandrecommendthatyouturnfromthisprintedpageandclickontowww.marcodadofoto.comThePhotographyofMarcoDadone FromtopL-ROurLadyoftheSeastatuewithMarcoonHeavalBarraEavalandCrofthouseSouthUistWestrayLighthouseIonaAbbeyPuffinonFairIsleEileanGlasLighthouseScalpayCallanishStones TheEstatesofJura28SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014Islandsinspirestrongfeelingsandmostreadersofthismagazinewillhavetheirownfavourites.HowevertravellersamongtheScottishislandshavenotalwaysbeendelightedbywhattheysaw.WhenSirJamesTurnervisitedJurain1647hedescribeditasahorrideileandahabitationfitfordeereandwildbeasts.However50yearslaterMartinMartindisagreed.InhisADescriptionoftheWesternIslesofScotlandca.1695hefoundJuratobethewholesomestplotofgroundeitherintheislesorcontinentofScotland.SowhowasrightIsJurahorrideOrisitwholesomeWhoeveryoubelieveJurahascertainlychangedsincethosetwointrepidtravellerslandedthere.SomeofthechangeshavebeencommontomanypartsoftheHighlandsIslands.DepopulationistheobviousexampleandonJurathenumberofinhabitantsgrewtoapeakof1158in1841andthendeclinedtoanall-timelowof188in2001followedbyaslightrecoveryto196in2011.ThePassingoftheCampbellsButonechangehasbeenparticulartoJuraandthatwasthepassingoftheCampbells.Jurawasdominatedbytheclanforalmost300yearsuntilthe1930sbywhichtimetheislandhadbeengraduallysoldoffpiecemeal.InJuraIslandofDeerPeterYoungsonrelatesthatbackinthe19thCenturytheendoftheCampbellerawasprophesiedbyawomanangrilyresistingevictionfromhercottage.ThedaywillcomesaidthewomanwhentherewillnotbeaproudCampbellleftinJura.ThelastoftheCampbellswillbeone-eyed.Hewillleavetheislandandallhispossessionswillbecarriedtotheshipinacartdrawnbyawhitehorse.In1938itwasCharlesCampbellwhosoldtheclanslastremainingestateArdfintogetherwithJuraHouseandallitshistoricfurnishings.Whenhelefthisremainingbelongingswereloadedontoacartdrawnbyagreyhorsewhosecoatwasturningwhite.AndasithappenedmanyyearsearlierCharleshadunfortunatelylostthesightofoneofhiseyesinanaccidentSevenSeparateEstatesSo75yearsagothelonglairdshipoftheCampbellsofJuracamequietlytoanend.Todaytheislandconsistsofsevenseparateestates.Theyareactivelymanagedmainlyassportingbusinessesprovidingdeerstalkingandfishingtogetherinsomecaseswithforestryandlivestockfarming.Someprovidevisitoraccommodationandmostaredevelopingrenewableenergysources.Theyareavitalelementintheislandseconomy.In2005accordingtoaneconomicsurveytheyhadacollectiveannualturnoverofaround500000secondonlytothedistillery.Buttheestatesarethebiggestsourceofemployment.In2005therewere24full-andpart-timestaffworkingforthem-some30oftheemployedpopulationoftheisland.SowhoownsJuratodayAndhowmuchhasitchangedProceedingfromnorthtosouthwebeginwithBarnhillandArdlussaformerlyasingleestatewhichwasdividedin1990whenitwasinheritedbythetwoFletcherbrothersCharlesandJamie.PreserveoftheDeerJamieFletcherownsBarnhillalthoughhispermanenthomeisonthemainland.EvenbyJurasstandardsthisisaremoteplacewithnopublicroadandonlyafewtracks.Thepopulationnumberstwootherwisetheestateisthepreserveofthedeerandtheeaglesbothgoldenandwhite-tailed.UnlikemostScottishestatesitdoesnothaveabighousebutitdoesboastthemostfamousbuildingontheisland.TheisolatedfarmhouseofBarnhillisknownworldwideastheplacewherein1948GeorgeOrwellwrotehislastnovel1984.NowadaysitisnotpermanentlyinhabitedbutitisavailableasaholidayletbestsuitedtothoseofasolitaryandspartandispositionasitsamenitieshavechangedlittlesinceOrwellsday.SouthofBarnhillliesArdlussaatthenorthendoftheA846Juraslongandwindingsingle-trackroad.CharlesFletcherdiedin2007andtheestatepassedtohissonAndrewwholivesatthehousewithhiswifeClaireandtheiryoungfamily.Thisistheonlyestatewithownersaspermanentresidents.ArdlussaHouseisperhapsthemosthandsomeresidenceonJurastandinginamagnificentpositionfacingdownagentlegreenswardtoArdlussaBay.Forover60yearsthishasbeenthevenuefortheislandsannualsportsawell-lovedsummereventinthelocalcalendar.DavidHoultsurveysthemTheEstatesofJura SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER29TheEstatesofJura 30SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014AlmostDividesJuraThe20000-acreRuantallainEstateliessouthofArdlussaandstretchesdowntoLochTarbertwhichalmostdividesJuraintwo.Itwascreatedin1984fromthenorthernhalfoftheadjacentTarbertEstate.TheownerisbusinessmanLindsayBuryaformerpresidentoftheinfluentialconservationcharityFloraandFaunaInternational.ContinuingoursouthwardjourneywecometotheTarbertEstatewhichalsoextendsoversome20000acresfromLochTarbertdowntotheCorranRiver.ThisEstatehasformanyyearsbeenownedbytheAstorfamilyanditwastheAstorconnectionwhichbroughtGeorgeOrwelltoJurainthe1940s.OrwellwasaregularcontributortoTheObservernewspaperofwhichthethenLordAstorwasownerandeditor.ThepresentLadyAstoristhemother-in-lawofPrimeMinisterDavidCameronwhohasstayedatTarbertLodgefromtimetotimeandwhodescribedtheislandonRadio4sDesertIslandDiscsappropriatelyasawonderfulplace.InWoodedGroundsSouthoftheCorranRiverflankingthePapsofJuralietheForestandInverEstates.AtthefootoftheeasternslopesForestLodgestandsinwoodedgroundsoverlookingSmallIslesBay.ForsomeyearstheestatehasbeenownedbytheVesteyfamilyandthecurrentownerisSamuel3rdBaronVesteyChairmanoftheVesteyFoodsGroup.TheInverEstateonthewestsideofthePapsbelongstoSirWilliamLithgowVice-ChairmanoftheshipbuildingandengineeringgroupLithgows.ModestlynamedInverCottageitsbighousestandsconspicuouslyontheshoreamilenorthofFeolinFerry.ThesteepslopesofthePapsareanaturalsiteforhydro-electricpowerandbothestateshaverecentlydevelopednewplants-theinstallationatInverisalreadyconnectedtotheNationalGridandhasmadeJuraintoanetexporterofenergy.OurjourneyendsattheArdfinEstatewhichoccupiesabout12000acresacrossthesouthoftheislandincludingJurasonlyvillageCraighouse.ThemainresidenceofTheEstatesofJuraPreviousPageTopBarnhillBelowArdlussaHouseAboveForestLodgeOppositeJuraHouseGardensandJuraHouse.ThephotographofForestLodgewassuppliedbyDeborahBrycetherestbytheauthorDavidHoult. TheEstatesofJuraSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER31theestateJuraHousestandsamongwoodlandsaboveasouth-facingslopelookingacrosstheSoundofIslay.NearthehouseisthefamousVictorianwalledgardenwhichthankstocreativegardeningandtoitsfavourablemicro-climateishometomanyrareandexoticbotanicalspecies.Untilrecentlythegardenwasopentothepublicandwasoneoftheislandsmaintouristattractions.TheWalledGardenTheestatewasownedbytheRiley-Smithfamilyfrom1938until2010whenitwasboughtfor4.9millionbyanAustralianhedge-fundmanagerGregCoffey.MrCoffeyisreportedtohaveambitiousplansfortheestateincludingtheconstructionofan18-holegolfcoursebuthisearlydecisiontoclosethewalledgardentothepubliccausedsomeadversereactions.EverythinginJurasgardenfarfromrosycomplainedaheadlineinTheScotsmaninMay2011.JuramayhavechangeddramaticallysinceSirJamesTurnerandMartinMartincalledthereinthe17thCenturybutonethinghasnotchanged-theislandinspiresstrongfeelingsand21stCenturyvisitorsstilldisagree.HereisIanMarchantvisitingJurainhispub-guide-cum-travelogueTheLongestCrawl.Ifeeloverwhelmedbythedesolationandemptiness.Itismuchtoomuch.WhereasinScotlandtheBestthecountrysquirkiestandmostcomprehensivemodernguidebookauthorPeterIrvinedescribesJuraashavinganineffablegrandeurindifferenttothedemandsoftourism....thesoundofsilenceiseverything.Juraishewritesquitesimplyamagicalisland.FurtherInformationPeterIrvineScotlandtheBestCollins2011IanMarchantTheLongestCrawlBloomsbury2006MartinMartinADescriptionoftheWesternIslandsofScotlandCirca1695ReprintedBirlinn1999PeterYoungsonJuraIslandofDeerBirlinn2001ArticleEverythinginJurasgardenfarfromrosyTheScotsman15May2011TheJuraEconomicSurveyTheFeolinStudyCentre2005www.juradevelopment.co.ukwww.jurainfo.com RubhaPhoil-ForestGardenNeverdoubtthatasmallgroupofthoughtfulcommittedcitizenscanchangetheworld.Indeeditistheonlythingthateverhas.MargaretMeadswordsneedtoberecalledwhensteppingofftheferryfromMallaigatArmadalePieronthesoutherntipofSkye.HereitishardtomissthecolourfulentrancetoRubhaPhoil-SkyePermaculture.TheSleatPeninsulaisknownastheGardenofSkyeandthe16acrespitoflushverdantwoodlandatRubhaPhoilisjustthatinmicrocosmameanderingmagicalwoodlandgarden.RubhapronouncedRuPhoilisGaelicforPaulsPointnamedafterPaulMacdonaldwholandedtherewithhisbrothersintheirflightfromGlencoefollowingtheMassacreof1692.TheMacdonaldsthemselvessettledfurtheruptheroadbuttheirlandingplaceofcourseremained.TheirdescendantLordGodfreyMacdonaldsoldRubhaPhoil-siteunseen-toitspresentownerSandyMassonin1989whenaccordingtoherlandwascheap.Sheisawarmtannedandvibrantwomaninblondpigtailsbluedungareesandwellieswhotalkstomeasshewalks.FellinLoveSandyissupervisingherbandofvolunteersasshegoessearchingallthewhileforherpreciousrakewhichsomeonehaspinched.ShearrivedonSkyebymotorbikeandfellinlovewiththeisland.AmakerandretailerofsofttoysfromEastYorkshireSandysurprisinglyfoundtheclimateonSleatwarmerthanhernativeNorthSeacoast.Themovewaschieflyinspiredbyacoursesheattendedin1989runbyGrahamBellofColdstreamnowanelderofthepermaculturemovement.Sandyclaimsthatherlifewasdramaticallyaltered.ItmademelookinwardsaswellasaroundandIrealiseditwastimeforachange.TheywereteachingaboutclimatechangeandifpeoplehadlistenedthenwouldithavemadeadifferenceAfteraspellworkingastheNationalCoordinatoratapermaculturecentreinDevonwhereshefoundlotsofpeoplewhocaredabouttheplanetSandymovedtoRubhaPhoilpermanently.TakingupresidencewithherpartnerinitiallyinacaravanintheMeadowtheybuilttheirownwoodenhouseandhadmovedinby1991.EquitableUsePermacultureethicsemphasisecarefortheEarthGaiaanditsinhabitantsandfortheequitableuseoftheplanetsresources.Theethosisbasedonsustainableagriculturemethodswhichaimtoproducemoreenergythanisconsumedtosaveandretainsoilrecyclenutrientsandwasteaswellasprovidefoodforlocalconsumption.32SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014AnniDonaldsonadvocatesSkyePermacultureRubhaPhoil-ForestGarden SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER33RubhaPhoil-ForestGarden RubhaPhoil-ForestGarden34SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014AtRubhaPhoiltheygroworganicvegetablesherbsandflowersforfoodandremediesandhaveabroodofroaminghensforfresheggs.Theproduceiseatenbytheteamofresidentsandvolunteerssurplusesaresharedorsoldtocampersandlocalpeople.EverywhereonRubhasSandycallsittherearecolourfulpaintedwoodensigns.PostersandnoticesinstructandadviseontheethosandprinciplesofSkyePermacultureonthetraditionalGaelictermsforherbsandhowtheywereusedlocally.Compostingandthemanagementofwaste-whetherfoodwaterorhumanvarieties-aredistinctivefeatures.Hereearthworms-ourfriendsinlowplaces-areeverywherehonouredasthestarsofthisparticularshow.LesPipesSandyhasthedistinctionofbeingtheCompostMentorforSkyeandLochalsh.Thereareopenwatersewagesystemscomposttoiletsreedbedsandwillowurinals-LesPipes.Thewormsbusyintheirboxesunderthecharmingwoodentoiletsdottedaroundthegladeskeeptheareasurprisinglycleanandodour-free.Itisaremarkableplacealtogether.AccordingtoSandyPeoplecomeherelookingforsomethingtheyarenotfindingelsewhereinsociety-aplacewheretheycanbecreative.SandyspeaksaboutMaryQueenofScotswhoseembroideryandcolourworkwithherthreadskepthersaneduringthoselongyearsofimprisonment.Beingcreativeiswhatkeepsyourheadtogether.Theevidenceofthatiseverywhere.TheplaceisahiveofindustryinpreparationforaforthcomingMidsummerpartyandGardensOpenDay.Youngpeoplearepaintinganderectingsignspottingplantsforsalebakingcakessettingtablesweedingandclearingpaths.Theyarevolunteersspendinganythingfromaweektomonthsatatimeonsite.Inexchangefortheworktheydotheyaregivenbedandboard.VisionforRubhTheyliveintentsinthecommunityhouseorinoneofthelogcabinsdottedaroundthesite.FrenchSpanishEnglishandGlaswegianconversationscouldbeheardaroundtheplace.ThereareseveralserioussidestoSandysvisionforRubh.Sheisconcernedaboutyouthhomelessnessandunemploymentwithmanyyoungpeopleunabletogetahousebecausetheyhavenojob.Scotlandshighrateofheartdiseaseandofsuicideparticularlyamongyoungmenisalsoaworry.SheisconvincedthatyoungpeoplecanlearnimportantlessonsandskillsatRubh-howtoliveandworkonthelandbuildcabinscookandlookafterthemselvesandothers.They RubhaPhoil-ForestGardenSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER35candophysicalandcreativeworktohelpkeepthemmentallyandphysicallywell.InarecentventureSkyePermaculturewasregisteredbyHighlandCouncilasanActivityAgreementProvidertoyoungpeopleinSkyeandLochaber.Rubhlendsitselfwelltoprovidinganactivity-basedexperienceofworkandlearning.Mentoringandguidanceareavailabletoyoungpeoplewhohavenotsecuredacollegeortrainingplace.BudgetandCookTheschemeaimstohelpthemdevelopskillsandconfidencehowtobudgetandcookonalowincomeandtoplantheirfuture.RubhwasalsogivenScottishInnovationGrantFundingtoestablishatextileworkshop.ThewoodenbuildingdesignedbylocalarchitectMagnusGunnisonofBroadfordiscompletedandfulfilsitspurpose.ThispartofSkyeispopularwith220000visitorsarrivingfromMallaigeachyear.ThenaturalenvironmentofthisVisitorCentrehasmuchtoofferdaytrippersandvisitors.Ithasaneco-campsiteandaccordingtoSandyPeoplesayitisthemostbeautifulcampsitetheyhaveeverseen.Theyalwayswanttocomeback-toenjoylivingclosetonaturetositroundcampfiresandwalkinthewoods.Eachoftheprivatepitcheshasitsownname-suchasCalumsCamomileCampingorKevinsEiggView-anditsownfire-pit.MostofthemhaveaseaviewoverlookingtheSoundofSleat.Thereisacabininthewoodsfortheuseofcamperswhenitrainsandtheyarealwayswelcometoshelterinthecommunityhouse.HavensforChildrenWoodlandwalksleadthroughamazeofrhododendrontunnelsandtheFaerieGladearehavensforchildren.Sealsareacommonsightontheshoreandtherockcaveispopular.BahiivisitorsbuiltacabinforquietmeditationamongtreestheyplantedaspartoftheInternationalPeaceForest.RecentventuresincludetheadditionofyurtsawigwamandSeagullSanctuaryCottageforholidaylets.RubhaPhoilisnowacharitabletrustandSandyanacknowledgedelderofthepermaculturemovementinScotland.Perhapsitsearlyvisionariesknewwhatwascomingwhentheyfirstalertedtheworldtoclimatechangeandadvocatedagreenerfutureforplanetearthanditsin-habitants.AvisittoRubhisadelightfulintroductiontotheseprinciplesandwhoknowsasidefromagranddayoutitmaychangeyourlifeThephotographsaccompanyingthisarticlehavebeensuppliedbytheauthorAnniDonaldson.FurtherInformationwww.skye-permaculture.org.ukwww.facebook.comRubhaPhoilwww.permaculture.org.ukScotlandRubhaPhoilForestGardenArmadalePierArdvasarSleatIsleofSkyeIV458RSskyepermacultureyahoo.co.uk01471844700 TheLifeofaColonsayTeacher36SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014AnarticleinTheTimesfromDecember2013describedcommunityspiritatanAbbeyfieldhomeinthevillageofCarradaleontheKintyrepeninsula.ItsparkedaremarkabletelephoneinterviewwithMissEvieEdithStrathaformerteacheronColonsayfrom1946and1950.Sheisnowover100yearsoldandIfeltcompelledtotalktoheraboutherexperiencesofislandlifebeforeitwastoolate.EvieStrathrelatedhowthedirectorofeducationinArgyllhadalonglistoffailingschoolsthatdidntcomeuptotheinspectorsstandards-fordisciplinewaspoorandtheycouldnotgetgrantsfromthegovernment.IsentatelegrambecauseIthoughtIcouldmanagetocopewiththesituation.TheysaidyoucanhaveofanyschoolsyoulikeandColonsaywasonmylist.WhenItookupmypostontheislandmycolleaguewasanunqualifiedteacherwholeftverysuddenly.GaelicwasnotmynativelanguagebutIpickeditupalongtheway.ThenIwasinsolechargeoftheschoolof46boysandgirlswhowereGaelicspeakersbutwerequicklearnersofEnglish.Ihadtenclassessevenprimarythreeadvancedandeducatedthemuptoschool-leaving.Bare-footedEveryyoungpupiloffiveorsixwasallocatedaseniorsittingbehindandIwouldsayHaveyouapencilHeorshewouldshaketheirheadsandwhisperinaseniorpupilsearthatonewasneededandtheninformedme.Childrenusedtocometoschoolbare-footed-Iwastheonlyindividualwhopossessedshoes.Thepopulationcomprised189inhabitantswholivedincroftswithaplotoflandtogrowtheirownvegetables.Therewaslittlemoneynoshopandnoonepaidforanything.Ifyouwereajoinerandyoufixedadoorforsomebodytheydidsomethingforyouinreturn.IwasagreatknitterandalwayshadapairofsocksonthegoforwhichIhadapuncturerepairedormybicyclecleaned.ThelairdatthetimewasSirJohnMcNeilandwithhisfamilyhadownedtheislandforgenerations.Howeverdebtshadgrown.LordStrathconaandMountRoyalwhomadehismoneybuildingtheCanadianPacificRailwayofferedtotakeoverColonsayinlieuofthemoneyhewasowed.LordStrathconawasveryfondoftheislandspentmostofhisholidayshere.QuiteaSpectacleIwenttoafriendsweddingwhereherfatherwastheownerandfarmerofthetidalislandofOronsayadayIshallneverforgetaslongasIlive.ThechurchservicewasheldonColonsayandthereceptiononOronsay.Sotheguestswadedacrossthecausewaycarryingtheirshoesandhadtowait12hoursforthenextlowtideat4.00inthemorning.ItwasquiteaspectacleOnSaturdaysespeciallytherewaslittletodobutfortheneverendingjobsaroundtheislandwaitingtobedone.ThiswasbecausealotofthemenwerewhowerecalledupwerestillawayevenaftertheWarhadended.Iwouldploughfieldswithacartandhorsetheoldfashionedwaymakebutterandcheeseandwasoneofthetwopolicementhere.Itwasnotthedonethingforladiestodrinkwhisky.Danceswereheldintheloftofabarnwithagiftforthebrideandthegroomifaweddingandabarrelofbeer.Themengotafreedrinkwhentheypassedintothehallwhilethewomencreptinandlookedtheotherway.Half-waythroughthedancethehotel-keeperusedtocomearoundverydiscreetlywithatrayofportandsherryfortheladies.RichardEvansinterviewedEvieStrathTheLifeofaColonsayTeacher TheLifeofaColonsayTeacherSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER37 TheLifeofaColonsayTeacher38SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014ILikeBoatsMackerelfishingwasmymainrecreation.Itwasntconsideredrightforawomantogooutinaboatbecauseitwasamansjob.Thewomenkeptoutofitasitwasthoughttobringbadluckandofcoursesuperstitionswererifeonislands.IhadtofightagainstthatbecauseIlikeboats.Therodswere9longbambooverywhippywithnoreelandthelurewasthetailfeatherofablack-backedgull.Atleastyoudidnthavetochangethebait.ThefirstoneItriedtohaulinupendedthebambooalthoughwiththelittlecatchIfoundIcoulddoit.Howeverthefirsttimethefishswungarounditsmackedallonboardintheface.TheysaidYoudothatagainandwellputyouoverboardTherewerejusttracksnoroadsandnothingbutwalking.Thefirstcarcametotheislandin1947transportedonboardsstrappedtothelittleferryboat.ItarrivedwithadoctorfromOrkneywhohadmarriedthesonofalocalfisherman.Oneofmypupilswasquiteenterprisingandstartedabike-hiringbusinessfortouristsfromthemainland.HotlyPursuedOntheseconddayIwasteachingIwenthomeformylunchacrossthemachairandchosetotakeashortcutatthebackoftheschooldespitehavingbeenwarnedbytheboysaboutthepresenceofbulls.Icamefacetofacewithanangrybullbutmanagedtoclimbintoahedgeandjumpedintoagreatmassofwetpeatandbulldungrightovermyankles.IwashotlypursuedbythebeastIfacriminalstolesomethingheranforsheltertotheislandofOronsayandifgotbeyondHangmansRockwithalargecrossofstonesembeddedinitthepolicewerepowerless.HewasputtoworkbythemonksofthePriory.WhenreleasedifhewascaughtbeforereachingthecrosshecouldbestrungupfromtheRockaccordingtolegend.ItwasalovelylifebecausebeingateacherIwaspartofaclosely-knitcommunity.IlivedatKilchattanintheBaptistmanselettomebythedistrictnurseastherewasnoaccommodationavailablefromthelaird.Itwasasolidtwo-storeyhouseclosetotheschoolandsurroundedbycroftswiththeirfamilies.PreviousPageTopSmallPieratScalasaigbelowGamekeeperanddogonbeach.BelowColonsaySchoolOppositeTopCalumGamekeeperandLillianClarkebelowHighlandCattleinresidence.ThephotographsandcaptionshavebeensuppliedbyEvieStrathwhoisnowblindbutwasassistedbyStuartIrvinewhoorganisedtheinterview.TheywererestoredbyRichardHainesofwww.photographsforever.co.uk SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER39TheLifeofaColonsayTeacherEagertoPlayItwaslikebeingwithahappyfamily.WehadregularceilidhsandIdontrememberevermissingadance.AlthoughIplayedthebuttonaccordionIwasntgoodenoughtoperformbuttherewasalwayssomeoneeagertoplayaguitarfiddlepianoaccordionorevenbagpipestoprovideaneveningsentertainment.Themainemploymentwasfishingandfarmingasmosthadtheirowncroft.Ifyoucouldgetajobinthelairdshouseitwasconsideredquiteastepup.Girlsweretakenonbythehousekeeperandthecooktrainedthem.Whenthecoursewasfinishedthegirlswouldoftengetajobinahotelonthemainland.Iwasfriendlywiththestaffandoftenwentmackerelfishingwiththem.TheflorawasgorgeouswithseasamphireMarshhelleborrineandtherareorchidSpiranthesromanzoffianabluebellsinspringandwildgarlicprimrosesandyellowirisesbrilliantbluescillainthecoastalrocksandharebellsinthesanddunesandofcourseeverywhereinthesummerthesubtlevarietyofheathercolours.YouCanImagineColonsayhadsuchasmallpierthatlargerboatshadtoanchoramileoff-shoretransferringgoodstosmallerboatsdependingonthesizeofswellanoperationopentothefullforceoftheAtlantic.SometimesinroughweathersuppliescouldnotbelandedsothebigboatsailedbacktoGlasgow.AllthefoodonboardwouldreturnintwoweekssoyoucanimaginewhatthebaconwaslikeWhenIreturnedrecentlymanythingshadchangedincludingfoodsupplies.Thecroftershouseshadbeenturnedintoself-cateringholidaylets.HowevertheolderfolkItaughtarestilltherebutdrawingtheirpensions. 40SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014CoastingAroundCannaRogerButlerdescribesanexhilaratingwalkviawildcliffsCoastingAroundCanna SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER41CoastingAroundCannaIhadwantedtowalkthecliffsofCannaeversinceaphotographcaughtmyeyeinadustyNationalGeographicatthebackoftheschoollibrary.AdramaticpanoramashowedacrofterclamberingalongasteeppathastheeveningsunturnedthecliffsonRumintodeepshadesofredandpinkandtheimagehadremainedcarefullyloggedinmychildhoodmemory.NowatlastIstoodhighonCompassHilllookingdownontheislandssweepingharbourandacrosstheseatodistantKnoydart.YesterdaysmisthaddisappearedandtheskieswereclearbutIcouldnotresisttakingmybearings.ForcenturiesthisundulatinggrassyplateauhasteasedsailorsoutinTheMinchsinceitsmagnetisedbasaltplayshavocwiththecompassandsureenoughmygoodoldSilvajoinedinthefun.Theneedlespunleftthenrightthenrightthroughafull360degreesbeforewobblinglikeaCalmacferryinaforce-ninegale.ThewindwasfierceandIwaspleasedtoholdontopiecesofoldfencingasIgingerlypeeredoverthesheer600cliffsattheeasternendoftheisland.Thismarkedthestartofafive-milewalkalongthenorthcoastbrokenonlybythelow-lyingisthmusatTarbert.DeepBlueVoidHereIwasabletodescendtoaVikinggravesetagainstabackdropofwildfoamingsurfandthejaggedCuillinofSkye.SquadronsofdivinggannetsandemptyhorizonsofpurpleheathermadesurethiswascoastalwalkingatitsverybestandmorethanonceIfoundmyselflookingdownontotheboldsilhouettesofwhitetailedseaeaglesglidinginthedeepbluevoidbetweenmeandthewaves.Sheepwerebeingroundedupandacroftercompletewithhistraditionalstaffwasdashingfromonehilltoanotherashewhistledcommandstohisworkingdog.EasyslopesandacoupleofstilesleduphillfromtherockybaytothewestofthepromontoryknownasRubhaLanganes.Agategaveaccessontothewesternclifftopsanditwasnowpossibletolookbacktothedramaticnorthfacingcliffsthathadbeentraversedearlierintheday.Someofthesecliffsnevercatchthesunandtheirdarkgulliesandblackravineslookedliketheymightbeckonthewayintoashadowyunderworld.Thepathnarrowedbeyondafenceandnervouslypusheditswayalonganarrowledgewheretheonlyprotectionwasprovidedbytwoorthreetinyrowantrees.APerfectPlaceAfterthenextburnagapinthecliffswasmarkedbyapaththatplungedsteeplytoabrightgreenswatheofgrassdottedwithhugebouldersoldsheilingsandmoreevocativelazybeds.Itfeltlikesteppingintoalostworldwheresweetpasturesledtoadazzlingbeachandaninaccessiblewaterfallcrasheddirectlyintothesea.Warmsunshineandblueskiesmadethisaperfectplaceforabreakandashortsharpswiminthechillywaters.IhavestumbledacrossmanyHebrideanhideawaysbutcantthinkofanythatquitecomparewiththisdramaticbowlbelowthecliffs.Apileofstrandedlobsterpotswastheonlysignoflifebutwholefamiliesoncelivedheresowingcropsontheirsliveroffertilegroundandmaybetakinganoccasionalponyortwoupthepathandoverthemoorstotheislandharbour.Sheepcasuallyambledamongsttheshortcroppedgrasswhilsttheclumpsofnettlesclusteredaroundtheremainingstonewallswereevidenceofformerhabitation.BythetimeIhadroundedthefarwesterncliffsominousdarkcloudshadobscuredtheUistsandrainwasobviouslyonitsway.Itarrivedhalfanhourlaterinstantlyturningsummersunshineintobleakmidwinter. 42SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014CoastingAroundCannaViciousHorizontalHailThepassingstormtookmecompletelybysurpriseandforfiveminutesvicioushorizontalhailturnedthemoorlandterracesintoafuzzyabstractpainting.ThenasifbymagicallwassuddenlystillandIwasleftstaringatasparklingdoublerainbowandblackthunderycloudsoverRum.ThewindpickeduponcemoreandIwatchedmylenscaprolldeterminedlyoveraprecipice.Iwasnowheadingeastalongthetalleststretchofthesoutherncliffswhereoneexposedwaterfallfrequentlygetsblownupintotheairlongbeforeithasachancetoreachtheshore.AfterheavyrainIhaveseenthismistylandmarkwithoutbinocularsfromasfarawayasMuck-adistanceofatleast20miles.WaybelowhemmedinbytheseaweretheremainsofwhatisthoughttobeanancientearlyChristiannunneryanditsGaelicnameofSgorrnamBnNaomhatranslatesastheSkerryoftheHolyWomen.Threecarvedstoneswithcrosseswerefoundinthecircularenclosurein1994butIwasleftwonderinghowthoseweather-beatenladiescouldhaveenduredyearafteryearinsucharemotelocation.TheSeasPowerPlacidHighlandcattleseemedunperturbedbythechangeableweatherasIwanderedgentlydownhilltothescallopedbayatTarbert.AformershepherdscottagetuckedintothehillsideabovetheexposedbeachisnowusedasabyreandlookstowardsthehighpointonneighbouringSanday.HighAtlanticrollersrumbledontothesandsandthedriftwoodcasthighabovetherockswastestamenttotheseaspowerduringthewinter.TotheeastofTarbertterracesofeye-catchingbasaltcolumnsrosefromthesealikeminiatureversionsoftheGiantsCauseway.AfinetrackclimbedsteeplytotheeastandwhenitsfinalhairpincrestedahilltopIturnednorthoverraggedrushesandaimedforabandofgrassonhigherground.ThewindwhistledacrossthemoorsandsinceanothershowerthreatenedIwastednotimeinseekingoneofCannasmostinterestinghistoricalsites.Thesouterrainsaresimplestone-linedundergroundpassagesthatwerebuiltprobablymorethan2000yearsagoforthestorageofprovisions.Theiropeningsarequitenarrowandbestsuitedtoyoungarchaeologistsbutwhythey SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER43CoastingAroundCannaPage40CoastingaroundCannalookingeasttothehighesthillCarnaGhaillfromthegullyaboveRuadh-sgorr.OppositeTopThesouterrainsmorethan2000yearsoldhavesmallstonewalledopeningsonthehillsidenorthofTarbertBayandwereprobablyusedforstoringfood.OppositeBelowAgatewayinahighstonewallframesapanoramaoverCannaharbourneartheendofthewalk.AboveLeftAviewwestfromtheslopesofCompassHilllookingtowardsCannaHouseandthebridgetoSanday.AboveRightAwaterfallplungesfromthecliffstotheeastofthebeachbelowthecragsatConagearaidh.weresitedinsuchanexposedlocationremainsamystery.Ipickedalineofcragsrunningparalleltothetrackandfollowedtheseuntiltheystartedtodescendtowardsalargesheepfank.ASuccessfulConclusionRabbitsranineverydirectionandjustforfunIclappedmyhandsandwatchedthreeorfourdozeninstantlyraceforcover.ThesehaveproliferatedonCannasinceworktoexterminateratswhichwerecarryingoutuntolddamagetothesplendidseabirdcoloniescametoasuccessfulconclusionafewyearsago.Agatewayinahighstonewallframedapanoramaovertheharbour.Somesaythisisthefinestanchorageonthewestcoastandwhenitssandsarerevealeditcanlookmorelikeasoftshelteredlagoonthanarefugefromstormywaters.TheshortandrebuiltbridgelinkingCannaandSandayswungintoviewandthewhitewashedcottagesdottedaroundthebaycontrastedwiththegauntsilhouetteofStEdwardsChurchatthefarendofSanday.ThiswasgiftedtothepeopleofCannabythe3rdMarchionessofButeinthe1880sandthoughdeconsecratedandcurrentlyawaitingfurtherrenovationasahostelandstudycentreitremainsacommandingHebrideanlandmark.Thetrackturnedleftandhuggedtheedgeoftheharbour.Isatonarockbyanoldwoodenboatandwatchedsomedunlinspatteracrosstheshortsaltygrass.AholidaymakerinthenearbycottagecalledmeoverforawhiskyasthelateafternoonlightshimmeredontheplantationsaboveCannaHouse.Itwastheperfectendtomylong-awaitedislandromp.FurtherInformationThearticledescribesananti-clockwisecircuitstartingandfinishingbytheislandharbourwhichcoversapproximately13milesandatotalofaround2500.Afulldayisneededfortheterrainisoftenroughandboggy.Narrowsheep-tracksfollowmanyoftheclifftopsbutsomesectionsarecompletelypathlessandthewestendofCannaiswildandremote.OrdnanceSurveyExplorerSheet397RumEiggMuckCannaSanday 44SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014MingaryCastleisprominentinthenewsjustnow.Neglectedforover150yearsbytheendofthe20thCenturyitwasindangerofcollapse.NowitisbeingrescuedthankstotheinitiativesofDonaldHoustonwhoboughttheArdnamurchanEstatein1996andtotheMingaryCastlePreservationTrustwhichhehelpedtofound.TheyaimtorestoretheCastleperhapsasaprestigiousfamilyhomeorasanexclusiveholidaydestination.WhateveritsultimatedestinymaybetherestorationhastheblessingofHistoricScotland.ItislocatedonthesouthshoreoftheArdnamurchanpeninsulatotheeastofKilchoanestablishedasalordlyresidencetodominatethewesternapproachestotheSoundofMullandasabasefromwhichtotraveltothesouthernHebridesandotherpartsofthewestHighlandmainland.Thecastleisgenerallythoughttohavebeenbuiltinthemid-to-late13thCentury.Itsmainfeatureremainsitspolygonalwallsome9thickand40highonthelandwardsidereducingto6thickand30highwhereitfacedthesea.Ithadalandentranceandaseaentrancesoastoarticulatewiththegalleysorbirlinnsthatdoubledupaswarshipsandthemainformoftransportatthetime.FirstFloorHallFromitsoutsetthecastlesprincipalaccommodationwasinitsnorthrangejustinsidetheencirclingwallwherethatwasatitswidest.Mostlikelythemainfeaturewasafirstfloorhallbuttherewasfurtheraccommodationonasecondstoreyabove.Garderobestoiletswereprovidedtotheeastofthisnorthrangeandperhapsalittlelateralsoagainstthewestwall.ButwhatofMingaryshistoryWhobuiltitoccupieditfoughtoveritrepairedanddevelopeditItsearlyhistoryisfarfromclear.HistorianshaveputforwardMacRuairisMacIansMacDonaldsandMacDougallsaspossiblebuilders.OnbalanceitislikelythatitwasfirstconstructedbyeithertheMacDonaldsortheMacDougallsbuteitherwayitwascertainlyaMacDonaldstrongholdintheearly14thCenturywhenArdnamurchanwasconfirmedinthepossessionofAngusOgMacDonald.AngusssonJohnassumedthetitleofLordoftheIslesin1336.Heandhissuccessorsseemtohavecontinuedtheover-lordshipofArdnamurchanandwithinitMingarytotheendoftheLordshipoftheIslesin1493.AtsomepointinthatperiodtheLordoftheIslesentrustedArdnamurchanandMingarytoajuniorbranchoftheirfamilyfoundedbyJohnorIanSprangachtheBoldMacDonaldayoungerbrotherofAngusOg.JamesPetreventuresintotheArdnamurchanandpromotesrestorationMingaryCastle SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER45FirstMajorRebuildThiscadetbranchbecameknownastheMacIansandtheyheldArdnamurchanandMingaryfirstfromtheircousinstheLordsoftheIslesthendirectlyfromtheCrownandlaterstillfromtheCampbellEarlsofArgylluntil1612.ItwasprobablyduringMacIanoccupancythatthecastleunderwentitsfirstmajorrebuild.Thenorthernhallblockwasrefashionedanewkitchenrangecreatedonthewestsideofthecourtyardandthetwoentrancesandthewallheadparapetsremodelled.TheMacIanswereclearlydeterminedtokeepcontrolofMingaryexpandtheirlandsandletnothingstandintheirwayofachievingthis.Indeedtheywerearuthlesslotevenbythestandardsofaruthlessage.TheycourtedroyalfavourbyopposingthesuccessorstothelastLordoftheIslesandMingarywasconsequentlyattackedin1515andperhapsin1517.Thecastlewasagainassaultedin1588thistimebytheMacLeansofDuartMullwiththeassistanceofSpanishsailorsfromtheArmadagalleonFlorenciathenanchoredinTobermoryBay.Themostnoteworthysiegehoweveroccurredin1644whenaforceofsome2000IrishMacDonaldsMacDonnellslandedinArdnamurchanatthestartoftheircampaignofsupportfortheroyalistcauseinScotlandheadedbyMontrose.NoMoreBeerTheIrishassaultreliedonfiringthegatesatactictheCampbelldefenderscounteredwithwhatwatertheyhadandwhenthathadrunoutwiththeirstoreofale.UnsurprisinglywhentherewasnomorebeerthegarrisonsurrenderedIn1647thecastleonceagainreturnedtoCampbelloccupancy.Itisthoughtthatthefinalmajorbuildingphasetookplaceattheirinstigationaround1700.Thismainlyinvolvedfurtheradjustmentstothenorthrangetransformingitintoeitheranup-to-datemansionorabarracksasitwascertainlyemployedin1746whenithoused59officersandmen.Howeveratsomepointinthemid-19thCenturythecastleappearstohavebeenabandoned.Itfellintodecayandby2000itseemedinevitablethatitwouldcrumbleaway.Insteadithashadareprieveandasrestorationworkcontinuesafuturethatisassured.ThewonderfulstoryofitsongoingrescueissetoutontheTrustswebsitewww.mingarycastletrust.co.uktowhichIhavecontributed.Thishasadetailedarchaeologicalandhistoricalanalysisfromwhichthisarticleisderived.ThewebsiteinvitescontributionstowardstheenormouscostoftherestorationworksitisagoodcauseandIcanrecommenditMingaryCastleThephotographsarebyJonathanHaylett. Island-visiting-LiterallyandThroughLiterature46SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014AmongtheoriginaldrivingforcesbehindtheestablishmentoftheIslandsBookTrustweretheprovisionofpublicationsontheScottishislandsandthepromotionofinformationaboutthemthroughconferencesandlectures.Therewasanelementofsurprisewhenin2004thefirstoftheTrustsdaytripsattractedover100participants.TheShiantsmusthavereceivedarecordnumberofvisitorsthatday.OneofthereasonsforthepopularityofthispioneeringeventwasthatitappealedtolocalpeoplewhohadoftenseenTheShiantsbutwhoneverhadtheopportunityofgoing.Amongthemwasanumberwhoseancestorshadeitherlivedthereorwhohadconnections.Thetalespasseddownthroughfamilieswouldhaveincludedreferencestotheloreassociatedwiththeseholycharmedorenchantedislets.Thelureoftheseplaces-notfaroffshorebutdifficulttoreach-hasmeantthatday-tripsarenowanintegralpartoftheTrustsprojects.TaransayPabbayScarpWiayLittleBernerayandothershaveappearedontheprogrammesofdifferentseasons.InaccessiblepartsoflargerislandslikeKinlochresortandArdbeghaverequiredthehiringofboatsorthecommandeeringoffour-wheel-drivevehicles.WideRangeonOfferThe2014seasonistypicalinthattherehasbeenawiderangeonofferMingulaysouthofBarraEnsayintheSoundofHarrisandCannafromNorthUist.HaskeiroffNorthUistfailedtoattractsufficientnumbersnodescendantsfromthereMealistawestLewiswascancelledowingtobadweather.PlacesontheeastcoastofLewisneededalongwalkCuirisealorthehiringofaboatSouthernPairc.TheEnsayoutingwasonethatfocusedonanislandthatisrelativelyclosetothemainlandofHarrisatLeverburghfrequentlyseenfromtheCalMacferryknownaboutlocallybutnotoftenvisited.Thegroupof12soondiscoveredaspectsofinterestfromtheguidedwalk.Severestormsinthe1690shadburiedpartsinsandincludingoneofitschapels.WhentheStewartfamilytookownershipinthe19thCenturyitestablishedafarm.ThecultivationoffarmlandtheemploymentofhorsesandtherearingofHighlandcattletookplace.OneofthedescendantsrestoredthechapelclosetoEnsayHousein1909andalthoughtheislandbecamedesertedinthe1930sanewownergavethebuildingmoreattentioninthe1950s.ThischapelknownasChristChurchcontinuestohostanannualservicearrangedbytheEpiscopalianChurchHarris.FocusofAttentionTherehavebeenoccasionswhentheIslandsBookTrusttripsthemselveshavebeensomethingofapilgrimageforsomeoftheparticipants.ThegraveyardonLittleBerneraywasamuch-cherishedandsought-afterburialgroundformanyyearsandthefocusofattentionforsomeonthetriptherewasdecipheringtheaginginscriptionsoffamilymembers.ArdbegontheextremitiesofLewisinWestUigwasasurvivingcroftingcommunitywellintothe20thCentury.Anewhousebuilttherein1934wasthebirthplaceofInaMacdonaldoneoftheIBTgroupvisitorsin2013.MostfoundthewalkfromHamnavayLodgearduousbutsherecalledhertimeattheside-schoolasapupilandthenateacherandskippingoverthehillin20minutes.CuirisealisatracklessdistancefromLemrewaybutstillbroughtoutagroupledbyJohnRandalltoaplaceLIVINGHISTORYTHEISLANDSBOOKTRUSTURRASLEABHRAICHEANNANEILEANTomAstonreflectsonanintegralfeatureoftheIslandsBookTrustIsland-visitingLiterallyandThroughLiterature Island-visiting-LiterallyandThroughLiteratureSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER47 48SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014Island-visiting-LiterallyandThroughLiteraturewhereoncefivefamilieslivedandwherelegendhasitthatboatsrenownedinthedistrictwereconstructed.Akeel-shapedrockiswashedbytheseaandwasapparentlywherethelaunchingofthecrafttookplace.Itwasofcourseatatimewhensea-routesweremoreimportantthanhighways.AWiderAudienceThesearetraditionsthatwerenotfullyrecordedandtheirexistencehasleftfewlandmarks.Therecordsofthemission-churchandschoolonScarphavesurvivedandthankstoAngusDuncanwhosebookHebrideanIslandgavethemawideraudience.HerelatedmemoriesoftheislandandofhisgrandfatheraninfluentialschoolmastertheretoIBTvisitorsgatheredintherestoredmissionafewyearsago.Knowledgeandinsightsofthelandscapehistoryanduseofalltheseplacesweregivenanewleaseoflifebythevariousparticipantswhoexperiencedandtalkedabouttheirstimulatingdaysout.Thewebsitewww.theislandsbooktrust.comhasdetailsofwhathashappenedandeventsthatareplanned.Doconsiderwhatsonofferfortheseareopportunitiestokeepconnectionsaliveandbringthepasttolife.ComfortablecottagestoletonthebeautifulIsleofTaneraMr.Stunningwildscenerybirdsflowersandspace-NocarsorTVResidentialcreativecourses-Kayakdinghyhireavailable-RYASailingSchoolTheIslandisonthemarketbutthe2014seasonwillrunasnormal.Visitourwebsitefordetailsofvacanciesandavailability.01854622252www.summer-isles.comlizziesummer-isles.comPreviousPageTopEnsayHouseandChapelbelowIBTgroupsettingofffromLemrewaytoCuiriseal.AboveLeftBrollumintheSouthernPaircrightBaghReimseabhaidhintheSouthernPairc.AllphotographshavebeentakenbyJohnRandall.www.theislandsbooktrust.comTheIslandsBookTrustWeareacharitableorganisationthatisbasedontheIsleofLewisandwhichaimstopromotetheunderstandingandhistoryoftheScottishislandsintheirwiderCelticandNordiccontextsthroughEventsTalksVisitsConferencesPublicationsResearchEducationAnewphaseinourdevelopmentliesaheadandyoursupportcouldbeinvaluable.PleaseconsiderMembershipInvolvementContributionsSponsorshipIfyouareinterestedcontactusatRavenspointKershaderIsleofLewisHS29QATelephone01851880737Emailsalestheislandsbooktrust.comorlog-ontowww.theislandsbooktrust.com SEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORER49Crossword12byTomJohnsonSendyouranswerfromthesmallgridtoeditorscottishislandsexplorer.comtoenterthecompetitionforafreeyearsmembershipofTheIslandsBookTrust.WinnerofCrossword11DavidJardine.SolutiontoCrossword11ACROSS1.FertilelowlandbyaScottishriver54.EighthlargestislandinOrkneylocationofBalfourandNewlot99.FertileislandinLochLinnhe710.Facsimileofdamagedcaliper711.Stirupinfluence913.CastletheancestralhomeofClanMaclean514.PrioryontheislandintheLakeofMenteith1016.FellowfromCorpachappeared418.Residence419.VillageonLochShielwhereBonniePrinceCharliesstandardwasraisedin17451022.Stroll523.LagavulinCaolIlaorKilchomaneg5425.Highlandbridgeopenedin1984726.ItsNotTomesJoneshit727.SegregatedistributingchocolategiftafterLent6328.NorthUistsettlementnearScolpaigTower-orapopularshadeplant5DOWN1.SiteofmegalithicstandingstonesonLewis92.Fragrantthornyflowers53.Self-conceit74.ProsecuteBakeOffsPerkins35.Check-inbuildingforaflight386.Thwartprogress67.SettlementandclimbersinnonSkye98.Raisingagentincookery512.VillageoverlookingtheSummerIslesintheCoigachpeninsula1115.MembersofthefamilyoftheDukeofArgyllareinthesoup917.Longthincigar920.HederaplantortheinnfrequentedbyHobbitsinTheLordoftheRings3421.Famousmonsterinaloch622.Rockymountain2581feethighinSutherlandorafamousracehorse524.Adjoins526.FerryportonSkyeprovidingconnectionstotheOuterHebrides3Whenyouhavesolvedthecrosswordtransferthelettersfromsomeofthenumberedsquaresintothesmallgridandsorevealthismonthscompetitionislandferryport.Submitthisnamealongwithyourcrosswordsolution.LIVINGHISTORYTHEISLANDSBOOKTRUSTURRASLEABHRAICHEANNANEILEAN IslandIncidents50SCOTTISHISLANDSEXPLORERSEPTEMBEROCTOBER2014JulyTheislandisbathedinsunshine.ThrongsoftouristsaremakingtheirwaybetweenthejettyandtheAbbey.OntheroadheadingwestthesummergrassesandtheAngelicagrowingintheroadsidevergesarecastingstrongshadowsontothetarmacandthedistinctiveraspoftheelusivecorncrakeisaconstantpresence.ItslateafternoonandImmakingmywayovertothehillsabovePortBan.Theseaisashimmerofsilversparkles.Thebeachisamosaicoffootprintsthoughthebayisnowemptyofholidaymakers.Istayonthewestcoastuntilthesunsetswatchingtheseatransformintoasheenofliquidorangesilkwiththeoffshoreislandssilhouettedinthetranquillitythatdescends.Thefollowingdayishot.IonahastakenonherCaribbeanpersonatheturquoiseseasandtheshellbeachesbrilliant-whiteinthesunshine.PalepinkflowersofSeaRocketproliferateonthesandsandthegoldenheadsoftheMarramgrassstandtallwavinginthegentlebreeze.ThisistheIonaIrememberfromtheholidayswithmychildren-theislandasabluewhiteandgreengemsetintheAtlanticOcean.Itwasntalwayslikethatofcoursebutthatsthememory.AugustTodaytheviewsouttoseaareclear.ItseasytopickoutCollTireethemountainsofSkyeandwithakeeneyethefaintoutlineoftheWesternIslessailingonthehorizon.Tothenorthimpressivecumuluscloudsarebuildinggiantwhitecloudssetinabluesky.Delicatepale-blueheadsofHarebellarescatteredinthegrassandKnapweedisfloweringinrichpurpleclustersontheverges.Howeverdespitethesunshineandthetouristsawindthatpushesthroughinthelateafternoonsendingshowersofdryleavesscatteringoverthevillageremindsusthatautumnisnotfaraway.ThefollowingdayonthemoorlandoverlookingColumbasBayIfindtheheatherinfullbloombutsomeofthebrackenisalreadyturninggoldenbrown.Latertheraincomesonandthetemperaturedrops.Iretreattotheguesthousebutthedayschangeableweatherisntoveryet.Therainpetersout.ThenintheearlyeveninganintensesquallarrivesaccompaniedbydramaticstormlightovertheSoundofIona.Towersoforange-tintedcloudsarefollowedbyrainbows.Imrunningoutoftheguesthousecamerainhandbutthemomentisdisappearingassuddenlyasitarrived.Aphotographytutoroncetoldmethatifyourechasingthelightyouveprobablymissedtheshot.TootrueIntheNextIssueMullCarRallyBarraBackboneJohnMuirFounderTreesIslandTypesYellStopAleisterCrowleyConfounderISLANDINCIDENTSBarbaraSellarscontinuesherreviewofayearonIonaIssueonsale18October20141.Colonsay2.Barra3.Foula4.Benbecula5.Islay6.Kirkwall7.Stornoway8.Sumburgh9.Tiree10.FairIsleAugustStormlightovertheSoundofIona.JulyFromthedunesontheWestcoastofIonalookingtowardsDutchmansCap. SubscriptionstoScottishIslandsExplorerOne-year24.97Two-years44.97Three-years62.97SeewebsiteforEuropeanandRest-of-the-World-RatesForsecureon-lineorderingwww.scottishislandsexplorer.comTelephone01379890270or07510127014ArchiveCDAneweasy-to-useandfully-searchableCDcontainingall88issuesfromJanuary2000toNovember-December201325postfreeMaybeorderedthroughwww.scottishislandsexplorer.comTelephone01379890270or07510127014DigitalIssuesoftheMagazineForKindleAndroidAppleSinglecopypurchase1.99One-yearsixeditionssubscription9.99www.pocketmags.com